Both the base valve piston and the midvalve/rebound piston have bleed holes already drilled into them from the factory to make the forks feel plush while trail riding at leisurely speeds and rock gardens. For good fork stroke control going faster the bleed shims are generally removed.
I am just now starting to work on these Zoke forks on my new to me 2007 EC300 as I have never had a pair before.
I opened up one of mine yesterday and found that it had been revalved already, but the stacks looked unbalanced, with a lot more shims on the base valve than the mid valve. The base valve had 12 22x.1 face shims, way too many. The midvalve looked reasonable, except for the 18x.1 bleed shim (on top of the bleed hole already drilled in the valve). I suspect this setup is way unbalanced with too much damping on the base valve and too much bleed on the mid.
I am going to try this (credit to Motosportz, Kyle Tarry & GMP at CafeHusky):
Base Valve:
22.1 (3x)
14.1
20.1
18.1
16.1
14.1
12.1
10.1
Midvalve assembly (rebound stack on top with midvalve stack below piston):
<nut>
15.1
17.1
18.1
19.1 (2x)
22.1 (2x)
<piston>
22.1 (2x)
20.1
18.1
16.1
14.1
12.1
10.1
18.1
Float is about 1mm with this midvalve setup
I am going to try 130 mm air gap using Mobile 1 ATF (7.5 wt)
This fork had a broken oring on the base valve so the fluid was leaking out and there was only about 400 ml left when I dumped it out. It must have been about 200 ml too low because it required just under 600 ml of fresh ATF to create a 130 mm air gap.
I also need to replace the bushings and seals. I need to order them and then will pull down the 2nd fork and revalve it too.
I have no idea what condition the shock is in, I suspect it needs an overhaul too, so I should really do that before riding the bike again.
Good luck with your bike. Steve