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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc. |
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#1
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200h on the clock, and guess what....
today i pulled off the topend of my ?13 300e, the bikes having around 200hours now and i thought it may be good to have a look to rings and piston.
piston looks good, little shiny parts, three minor scratches. last year the bike sucked some water because of the poorly and brainless constructed airbox so i guess this is what the scratches caused. measured the rings, upper 0,4, lower 0,3. guess its pretty in the range for its hours. the piston i will meaure next week, dont have a micrometer in my workshop, but i guess he will be in tolerance. cylinder also looks good in generally, two little scratch points from suckin water, a ride with the hone tool through it will fix that and will give back its crosscut. im pretty impressed about that little wear in that engine, rod also dont have any play. ok i ride the bike smooth and take care of it, where i ride the bikes not getting much revs, no mx, but hey, anyway, after this much hours? interesting how the cyliner is created, there is plenty of guiding surface for the piston, if you compare it with an pumpkin cylinder, there are more holes in than guiding survace. if the piston is in shape and the right measure, i bring em back on and i guess hes still good for another 100 hours.... by the way, spuish is 2,2mm. well done gasser..... |
#2
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what premix oil do you use?
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Jack - western PA 2006 KTM 250 sx 2006 EC 200/ 11' style kit--GONE 2004 200 EXC 1997 KDX 220 2004 CRF 250X 1974 CL125 www.youtube.com/allthatstuff35 <---some gasgas videos here |
#3
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Just recently someone posted a link to slavens video where he says not to use a honing tool. News to me but made sense thought I should pass it on
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2003 txt250 Pro 2013 Ossa 280i |
#4
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Don't use a hone tool on Nikasil lined cylinders.
Use a diamond hone in the right size, or use red scotch brite to clean up the cylinder. You can also use a diluted muriatic acid (stone and grout cleaner) to wash the plating, just don't let it sit too long and clean it thoroughly when finished.
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Phil (New bike pending...) |
#5
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Show us some pics Pics make these threads and are great for others to comment on and for the newer tinkerers to get an idea of whats what
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#6
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pics i will post later.
well with the honetool. i saw this video from slavens, what confuses me, a hontool isnt good, but a sandpaper is??? his argument, a honetool leaves dust in the pores isnt really an argument, you clean the cylinder afterwords anyway with break cleaner wich washes the oil away including the peelingdust. and with a sandpaper i guess you havent any feel to get a right surface. from the experience of a friend wich runs a workshop in germany, he repairs any kind of bikes and bikeengines since 20 years, would say about a hundred engines a year, he always goes through a nicasil plated cylinder when putting a new piston in and never had any issues. i had a bike in 08, a husky wr250, wich i dived in dirty water and tryed to start up immediatly, in that cylinder was not just minor scratches, would say he was on the edge for a recoating, he went through with his honetool, put a new piston in and i rode that bike would say for at least another 100hours before i sold it then. i understand that risk to break out the coating on the ports, but from my friends and my experience also, it never happend. its hard for me to imagine to brake out an edge from an port, then hone stones are a 100mm long and bring the pressure on a big and straight surface, and also that nicasil material is as hard as a stone. im up to learn more and change my opinion if its logic, currently this is my understanding of it. in my bike i ran different oils, last year i used motul, mostly the 710, also sometimes the 800, both always in a 1:50 mix. this year i get a castol power1, bought a 60liter barrel. sure my riding style is good for the engines life too, i mostly grunt around on trails and in the montains, there is no need and also no possibility to rev the bike. |
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