07 Tail on 06

[Webski]

Has anybody researched if the new tail section bodywork will fit on the older models. I believe it would take the subframe, airbox, air filter, seat and rear fender-side panel assembly.
If anybody has checked this out they probably have the costs too.
I would like to put this on my 06 300.
Anyone...Anyone...Buehler...

[Berkyboy]

Webski

Between the subframe, seat, rear fender, air box and all of the required springs, filter bolt etc. be ready to spend over $800. That's not figuring in any of the nuts and bolts which you should be able to take off of your old subframe set up.

I ran the part numbers for every unique 07 part number and the subtotal came in at around $840 retail. With the subframe, fender and seat making up well over $600 of it.

[gasgasman]

You will also need red shrouds and front fender.

[GMP]

I had a feeling that new subframe would be expensive, considering the added complexity. Just like the Husky, around $600. Don't loop out!

[Berkyboy]

The sub-frame is $269.97.

[Adrian]

I too am interested. It seems like I have a graveyard of bust up/ worn out subframes. I have a bike in need of a subframe and seat now. Is the new airbox sealed off better?

[Boomhauer]

Originally Posted by Berkyboy

Webski

Between the subframe, seat, rear fender, air box and all of the required springs, filter bolt etc. be ready to spend over $800. That's not figuring in any of the nuts and bolts which you should be able to take off of your old subframe set up.

I ran the part numbers for every unique 07 part number and the subtotal came in at around $840 retail. With the subframe, fender and seat making up well over $600 of it.

OUCH!!!!!!!!!!! I think I will keep my flimsy 04 sub frame for a while.

[GMP]

My '00 never tweaked the subframe, because I didn't use the loop extension/support like on my '03. I used one of the old style Acerbis plastic rear fender braces. That worked great, let the fender flex in a crash so the subframe wouldn't bend, but kept the fender from flexing too much in the bumps and cracking.

[Berkyboy]

One of the tricks to keeping an older style GG sub-frame from cracking is to check that there is no "side-loading" on the 4 mounting points of the sub-frame where its bolted to the frame.

What I mean by "side-loading" is when the sub-frame is being bolted to the frame all of the bolt holes should line up with very little pressure needed to align the holes of the sub-frame to the holes on the frame.

The more pressure it takes to force the bolt holes of the sub-frame to line up with frames bolt holes the greater the chance that the sub-frame will crack because that pressure remains constant on the subframe.

The same problem can happen if your muffler / spark arrestor (SA) needs a little persuading when you install it as well.

When installing the muffler / SA check that the mounting tabs on the sub-frame are in line with the mounting tabs on the muffler / SA. If their not you may have to use a couple of flat washers to shim the tabs so there's no side-loading when its bolted down.

Another thing that can cause the muffler / SA to be out of aligment is the stinger on the end of the pipe may be out of shape due to crashing or a missing or deformed "silent block" (the rubber bushing that the supports the pipe.)

[Adrian]

I know in my case I'm a little hard on them. I have wore my boots through the side of them on sevral times. I'm assuming the air box isn't any better either. Its sounds like I'm hearing stick with the old stuff because the new design isn't any better. I mean I allready need a seat and subframe. Ive been on the fence with this for over a month.