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Enduro Chassis & Body Enduro Frame, Plastic, Brakes, Bars, Controls, wheels, tires, sprockets & gearing. |
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#1
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Front Wheel Bearings
Im only getting 1/2-3/4 season out of wheel bearings? seems short, last time I paid someone to change them, is this something that can be done at home without any special tooling? Any tips? Can I obtain bearings from a local bearing shop or do I need to order through GasGas, thanks homies!
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Bryan 2013 Husaberg TE250 - Current 2011 GasGas EC300 - OLD STEED 2011 Husaberg FE390 - OLD STEED 2010 Yamaha WR250F - OLD STEED #53B I dream of a better tomorrow, where Chickens can cross the road, and not be questioned about their intentions. |
#2
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Easily an at home job. No special tools required except for a large socket, a long punch/drift and a hammer. Source some quality replacement bearings from a store. I can look up the size for you if you like. I always have a spare set on hand as you never seem to know when they'll fail. In saying that in 7500kms I have had to change the front once, and rear once in mine. Make sure you change the seals at the same time, and if the alloy spacer is flagged out get a hardened one too. I pull the seals and check for cleanliness almost every time the wheel comes off the bike as well.
I'll go through the method later on. Just getting ready for work now. Cheers. |
#3
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bearings
Hi Ernie
front wheel bearings are very easy to change. I just did a set the other day. You can either get the bearings at a local bearing shop or online. The link here has them for $1.59 each. The seal should be a 25-42-7 seal. Any bearing shop should be able to match them. http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PRO...FYWo4AodVi8AvA Or you can get the AllBallsRacing kit for $16.40 It will have 2 bushings and 2 seals.. http://www.allballsracing.com/28-1116.html As far as changing the bearings, GENTLY pry the seals out with a flat head screwdriver. Then insert a punch through the hub. with a little side pressure you should be able to displace the center spacer a bit. then work the punch around the entire bearing tapping gently..gently.. the bearing should work its way out slowly. When the bearing comes out the inner spacer will fall right out. then flip the wheel over and gently tap the other bearing out. Installation is pretty much the reverse. If you have access to a Hydraulic press, it is very easy to install the bearings, if not, use a socket that is about the same size as the bearing and (again gently) tap the bearing in until it seats. Flip over, insert the center spacer, and repeat. Now press in the dust seals, and you are done. If you have a propane torch, you can heat the hub. The aluminum hub will heat faster than the bearings making it easier to insert and install the bearings. I like to put my bearings in the freezer over night before I install them then heat the hub to minimize the binding. If you have any questions, email or PM me and I will give you a call. Pat |
#4
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Next question, I have a slight amount of play in the front hub due to bearings starting to die, whats everyones thoughts on me squeezing out one more ride tommorow am
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Bryan 2013 Husaberg TE250 - Current 2011 GasGas EC300 - OLD STEED 2011 Husaberg FE390 - OLD STEED 2010 Yamaha WR250F - OLD STEED #53B I dream of a better tomorrow, where Chickens can cross the road, and not be questioned about their intentions. |
#5
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Quote:
Thanks
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2012 - XC 300 Racing Seattle, WA |
#6
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Don't buy cheap bearings. They won't last as well. Get a good sealed set of japanese ones. My preference is Nachi
The method above is right on. Things to note. Punching them out you will be hitting on the inner race. This roots the bearing. Its good for the bin when you're done, even if they were still good. Don't be tempted to reuse. Check for circlips on the hubs retaining the bearings in. I think the rear might have one maybe. Can't remember - maybe its the yamaha? Different bikes have slightly different setups, but if its got a circlip no amount of punching will get it out without something breaking. For installation make sure you only work on the outer race to seat the bearing. Thats why a large socket is suggested. Cycle around the outer race making sure the bearing goes in evenly. The tone will change when the bearing is fully seated. Don't forget to put the space back in before installing the second bearing Depends how much play you have as to if you'd risk it. Whats a hub worth to you? Thats what it could cost if it goes really bad. Also why I always keep spare bearings. Its a 10min job and far easier than changing a tyre. I always seem to find them the day before a ride while going over the pre ride checks. |
#7
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Rear bearings
Go to the main page of the website. On the left click on "tech Articles" there is an article on changing rear bearings. It is good info...
I will post the rear bearing sizes shortly.. Again the All Balls Racing set is only $22.00 |
#8
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The all balls kit #25-1457 fits the EC125 01-02, EC200 99-02, EC250 96-02, EC300 99-02, MC125 01-02, and MC250 99-02.
It consists of: 2 seals labeled: 30-4701 2 bearings: 6004 2RD-QE6 1 bearing: 6204-2RD-QE6 |
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