2010 Sach Fork Questions.

[hallam76]

Hi firstly i am new to gasgas and this forum and will be greatful for any feed back, after many years riding Hondas I have got my first gasgas a 2010 250 CC. I am very happy with the bike and the suspension is not too bad, i have decided to service the forks, and at the same time check what the shimming and other things are set to. I have previously done a lot of revalving work on showa and WP forks but these are my first set of Sach and would like to confirm what the base settings are, as on close inspection it seems that there are some bleed holes in the compression piston are these std? (I could attach photos if anybody is intrested)
Therefore can anybody confirm the exact shim stack in std fork in the compression rebound and midvalve stack? I must point out that i bought the bike second hand so i dont know exactly if they have been modified or not.
Also can anybody give there feedback on which make of of oil seems to work best and what air gap? it seems they were presently set at 110mm ish?
Thanks in advance for your input.

[twowheels]

Originally Posted by hallam76

Hi firstly i am new to gasgas and this forum and will be greatful for any feed back, after many years riding Hondas I have got my first gasgas a 2010 250 CC. I am very happy with the bike and the suspension is not too bad, i have decided to service the forks, and at the same time check what the shimming and other things are set to. I have previously done a lot of revalving work on showa and WP forks but these are my first set of Sach and would like to confirm what the base settings are, as on close inspection it seems that there are some bleed holes in the compression piston are these std? (I could attach photos if anybody is intrested)
Therefore can anybody confirm the exact shim stack in std fork in the compression rebound and midvalve stack? I must point out that i bought the bike second hand so i dont know exactly if they have been modified or not.
Also can anybody give there feedback on which make of of oil seems to work best and what air gap? it seems they were presently set at 110mm ish?
Thanks in advance for your input.

Hallam: Welcome aboard! We don't get a CC here in the States, but our XC settings should be similar.

There are indeed two bleed holes in the compression pistons (1.35mm)

Sticking with compression, from the base valve
24x0.15
12x0.15 crossover
20x0.15
16x0.15
14x0.15
12x0.15
10x0.3 (2) spacer
13x3.1 collar

The rebound pistons also have two bleed holes (1.5mm)

Midvalve
25.00x0.2 (3)

Rebound from the piston towards the nut
24x0.10
22x0.15
10x0.15 crossover
18x0.15
14x0.15
12x0.15
8.95x0.3 spacer
13x3.1 collar

110mm seems high for the oil level - I think the spec is out to 140mm - but you can decide based on bottoming performance. The stock oil wasn't horrible, but I typically use KYB 01M in all of the bikes I service.

Please share your valve stacks, and welcome again.

[HuskyDude]

CC = CrossCountry = XC

[twowheels]

Originally Posted by HuskyDude

CC = CrossCountry = XC

Sorta/kinda/maybe. US 2010 XCs were rest-of-world ECs without blinkers etc. I'm not 100% sure that they are equivalent to CCs (which I think was an official designation).

[hallam76]

Thanks for the input guys, i will check the deatil closely and report back, just one more question I know getting the centre cartridge apart is usually tight but these seem extremely tight I have tried a bit of heat but no look I thought I would check they are lefthand thread or anthing odd, any tips?

Also here in the UK a CC model is the same as a EC but without a back light speedo or flashers.

[twowheels]

Originally Posted by hallam76

Thanks for the input guys, i will check the deatil closely and report back, just one more question I know getting the centre cartridge apart is usually tight but these seem extremely tight I have tried a bit of heat but no look I thought I would check they are lefthand thread or anthing odd, any tips?

Also here in the UK a CC model is the same as a EC but without a back light speedo or flashers.

Heat, heat, and more heat! And the correct tools. Once you've got it good and hot - but don't melt the little seal inside. Then, holding the cartridge tightly, rap the tool to break the cap free and you're in.

Took an updated/2011 compression tap apart last night - shorter tap due to shorter piston. Bleed holes are gone, replaced by a bleed shim and significantly different valving.