Float Level, please explain?

[Bailey28]

My 2010 EC300 has the older style black screw on cap on top.

[REVERUP]

Originally Posted by rod

The sticky at the start of this forum will spell it out, the 14-16mm suggested is for the circular screw top carb. I'm not sure when GG went to the newer style carb (2 x small screws holding down carb top). My 2010 ec has this newer carb and so does 2011, the jury is still out on this one as far as recommended float level goes, but i wouldn't be using the old specs of 14-16mm.

Don,t think its possible to adjust the Air striker 2 carb float hight. With out putting a different float assembly in it. The float assembly now is all plastic. Thought about some light heat to try to manipulate the arms, but not sure how much to bend. So instead I ran away with my tail between my legs.

Roscoe

[2whlrcr]

I adjusted my 2010 300 so that the seam in the floats, is parallel with the bottom of the carb, while holding it upside down. I remember this being a generic recommendation from years ago. I have no idea what the height is in mm, but I know it's quite a bit lower than factory. I seem to get better fuel range now.

[MattR]

Originally Posted by 2whlrcr

I adjusted my 2010 300 so that the seam in the floats, is parallel with the bottom of the carb, while holding it upside down. I remember this being a generic recommendation from years ago. I have no idea what the height is in mm, but I know it's quite a bit lower than factory. I seem to get better fuel range now.

This is the basic procedure, but you should unload the spring by slightly tilting the carb. When you hold it upside-down, you will see the weight of the floats depressing the spring assembly that is part of the small valve. As you tilt the carb between 25-45 degrees, you will see the spring begin to extend as the floats reduce weight exerted on the spring. If you keep tilting further, the the metal tang is no longer contacting the spring (oops, you when too far).

The goal is to tilt the carb just enough for the float weight to just have the metal tang "lightly" resting on the spring (and not depressing it). When you are in this state of zen, you look at the seam molded into the floats and it should be typically horizontal with the float bowl mounting surface. Some folks measure the height but it really doesn't matter, every bike is different and some like more/less fuel in the float bowl. Getting the float seam approximately level is a good starting point.

If you need to adjust the float height, you bend the small metal tang touching the spring. It only takes a very small bend. Repeat the tilt test until you are happy.