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Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke Jetting, Reeds, Air Filters, etc. |
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#11
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I'll bet a nickel its the reeds.
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#12
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Here's another question that may end up being blindingly obvious- I have a Boyesen block in there, so only Boyesen reeds will fit, correct? I'll try the local Yamaha shop and Tasky's today, see if they have anything in stock. Really don't want to have to order right now. If anyone has an extra set of reeds I'll take them off your hands.
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#13
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Yes you will need Boysen pedals to fit a Boysen block. My Vforce were the same as a cr250, not sure about the Boysen though.
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#14
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As an update- Boyesen Reeds are for a 1996 YZ250. PSR-21 (current PN) or PRO-21 (previous PN). That is for the Pro Series Reed (PSR). Otherwise it's RL-91 for the 2002 EC300.
For fun (after ordering new reeds), I did a little test. The joke is that I am extremely frugal (read: cheap), but I like to think that I am creative and want to solve issues without spending lots of money. Okay, I'm cheap. Anyway, a friend jokingly suggested that I wrap a rubber band around the reeds to get them to close. We had a good chuckle, then on my ride home yesterday i thought about it a bit. Here's what I came up with- First picture is reeds as delivered. Note the gap. Second and third pic are with the rubber band under the tail piece of the top reed, thereby preloading the reed into position. I'll give it a test this afternoon. I'm not expecting this to permanently cure my problem, but it will help remove one variable. |
#15
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How did that work out for you?
__________________
2013 GasGas 300 2004 GasGas 200 2011 GasGas 300 Ortonville Minnesota |
#16
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It proved the reeds were the least of my concerns. I bought new reeds and there was no change from my cobbled together "test" modification, or even prior to the repair. The new reeds seem to work as well as the old warped set. But the rubber band shim certainly did help to preload and seal the reeds, no question. The gap was gone, and the bike ran all day without any change in performance (read: it ran poorly all day).
The bike has been rebuilt from the tires up (including every bearing and seal in the engine), cylinder plated to match a new piston, and I just haven't made the time to ride and test-n-tune. New piston, rings, reeds, exhaust o-rings, and other errata do wonders for these things. |
#17
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Quote:
__________________
07 EC 300 06 Gold Wing (2) 06 CRF 150 F |
#18
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First thing I did, before any ride, was repack the silencer. The bike was running poorly from the beginning, so I went through everything that I could before I started tuning it for me. Now I just need to make time to give it some miles and see how it's doing. I love the way that it handles, now I just need to get it running well enough to enjoy it. Soon, I keep promising myself.
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#19
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Sorry I'd fallen off this thread.
IMO the key to jetting these bikes is all in the needle. A rich pilot will burble just off idle and a lean will give poor response. A rich main will burble up at WOT and a lean will fall a bit flat. The needle is the key. It covered almost the entire rev range and has the most variables. It also overlaps both previous mentioned circuits. I think the older bikes prefer to run a bit richer than the new. I would definately suggest spending some coins. Get an NEDJ and a N3EJ, both should be happy with around a 42 pilot. NExx 172/175 main, N3xx 178/180. Start with the clip in the middle. If you experience more burbling at 1/4 throttle than you are happy with lift the clip 1 pos and try again. Shouldn't cost much more than $30 in parts. You could probably borrow a N3EJ/N3EW off a mate if you know anyone with a YZ250 |
#20
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Quote:
I'll get there, I promise! |
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