2010 EC300 Factory Jetting Specs - WTF?

[Jakobi]

N3Cx is half a clip leaner than the N3Ex

N3CH#1 is leaner than N3EH#1 by half a clips difference.

[swazi_matt]

ok clear, and since i ride at a slightly higher altitude to you then i should be able to use the same jets as you and make up the difference in altitude with the slightly leaner needle and air screw

[Jakobi]

Lots and lots of variables come into play. Individual engine characteristics, Temp, Altitude.

What was your jetting previously that isnt working now?
What symptoms is your bike showing? Rich/Lean where? At what throttle positions?
What has changed environmentally?

For example:
My bike was tuned
38 N3EG #1 175 100-1000M 30C 80%+ Humidity - Slight burble off idle

It has now started to cool off into winter. Temps dropping between 5 - 10C. The rain has also cleared up with RH between 50-70%.

By changing needles I leaned the lower burble out. G diameter - H diameter. I also effectively richened the needle position by half a clip.

New setup
38 N3CH #2 175 100-1000M 26C 55%RH

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by swazi_matt

ok clear, and since i ride at a slightly higher altitude to you then i should be able to use the same jets as you and make up the difference in altitude with the slightly leaner needle and air screw

Have you checked the float height yet? That is the first thing that needs to be addressed.

[swazi_matt]

Yes first thing I will do is set the float. Then disconnect the choke
It was almost fine before. 175 40 n3eh #2 at between 600-1300m but it always had a bit of a sPlutter going from slow to wfo which is why I think the 172 main should be better. There was often a bit of spooge out the exhaust I also think with the fan I can afford to go slightly leaner

[Jakobi]

As long as you just make one change at a time, one step at a time, you won't go too far wrong. I know of one person here in Aus who is running a 168 Main.

Throw the 172 in and ride it down the street. You'll almost immediately know if its got better or worse.

[swazi_matt]

thinking of giving this plug chop thing a test, now GG recommends the BR8EG but i do not want to waste a $15 plugs so if i use the BR8ES which is about $5 to get the jetting right will it then be off if i move back to EG?

[Jakobi]

Some people say to use a fresh plug for each chop, but I have found that even using the same plug you will notice differences between whats too rich and too lean. If its running too lean or hot it will burn off any carbon. If its running too rich you'll see excess.

I have read about the super keen using a fresh plug and cutting the threading back to inspect the porcelain area. I just look in there using a mini torch.

[noobi]

Theres no difference in effective jetting between an ES and an EG, it will be fine to get the jetting right with an ES then swap back. Wasting $15 on a plug that you use once then replace with a fresh one is silly, even if you keep it as a spare.

[stainlesscycle]

jet with cheap plugs. they're usually easier to read too....