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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #11  
Old 06-17-2011, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMP View Post
Just use good Euro/Japaneese bearing replacements, not the cheaper junk from China.
What the heck, try to find an American bearing just for fun


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  #12  
Old 06-19-2011, 07:21 PM
desertgasser300 desertgasser300 is offline
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Is there a special type of wrench to get to the cylinder nuts that are located in the powervalve assembly? Its a 13mm but everything I have is to big to get in there.

Last edited by desertgasser300; 06-19-2011 at 08:43 PM.
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  #13  
Old 06-19-2011, 08:57 PM
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Buy another 13mm box wrench and relieve the outer edge on your bench grinder enough so it fits. The nuts are not so tight as to create a problem. Put it in the "special tools" drawer of your tool box.
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  #14  
Old 06-19-2011, 10:37 PM
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That was my next move, thanks. Now for the next question, anybody have experience getting the counter balancer out. Is the nut reverse threaded, because I cant it to budge.
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  #15  
Old 06-20-2011, 08:13 AM
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Not sure, ping Cruiser, he has a '97 and has had it apart. If its geared to the crank, it spins in the opposite direction (CCW looking at the primary side). Considering this, logic would tell me its a standard direction thread like the clutch basket. The crank pinon nut I can tell you for sure is reverse thread.
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  #16  
Old 06-22-2011, 05:37 PM
desertgasser300 desertgasser300 is offline
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OK, I am giving up on trying to remove the counter balancer nut peacefully. It is on there to stay! Anything wrong with cutting it with a wheel and breaking the nut off? I have done this method before just not on internal motor parts. Cant see the red circle to well, but this is the nut I speak of. It's the only thing that stands between me and splitting the cases!!!


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  #17  
Old 06-22-2011, 08:12 PM
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You may have to heat the nut to loosen the locktite.
otherwise, cut it off.
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