Electrical Gremlin

[wence]

Blown fuse now???
Maybe check the fuse Jake?
Also get a copy of the diagram if you haven't already.Try to follow it through.
Cheers Mark

[Jakobi]

I don't know if it has a fuse? I've never seen one. I had a look at the exploded view of the wiring loom and it doesn't really have enough info to help. I'm going to sack up and learn how to use the multimeter and do a few checks both for voltage (AC) and continuity. I'll check the grounds again for the 15th time.

[Jakobi]

Seems all the yellow wires are fine and supply the expected 12V. There is about 4 x yellows that come together and then get spliced. A yellow with green trim exits which then goes to the loom for the switch block. My logic tells me there should be 12V going to the block, through the block, and to the headlights. I am only reading about .1 to .5V on this wire. Guess the next step is to strip the shrink wrap back and inspect the splice.

Its possible that I may have damaged this when I was taping everything up again which would explain why it was good and then went bad.

[Jakobi]

So I'm stuck fast! I've pulled the rest of the loom out that I havent used in some time for the indicators. Followed everything else back and found some worn wiring at the rear end. There is a purple cable that runs right from the front of the bike (headlight connection using race connector / no switch) to the rear of the bike (tail light). I have repaired the damaged parts and checked for continuity and all is well there. I can only measure .2V on this although at one point I'm sure I was reading around 2V. I can't see where this cable sources its power from though. It just appears to run front to back.

There is also a yellow cable that links the main loom back to the front brake switch, and a yellow cable with the green stripe. As per last post was incorrect. No voltage on this at all. It runs from the main connector back to the cdi.

Everything else that is meant to have 12V does. The rear brake switch works but the tail light and headlights are getting no power at all.

[Jakobi]

After much checking the wiring diagram and going over everything a few times I have 95% of the things fixed up. The broken yellow 12V power wire didn't actually break. It was 2 x wires which had pulled out of a large section which were all soldered together. No idea why they took 3 wires, cut them all, soldered them back together in one bunch again but meh. All fixed and all working as it should. The only thing thats not working is the power for the trailtech vapour. There is a wire that comes out thats 12V AC which then goes through a little plug which I assume flicks it to DC but all the readings I am getting are quite high. Well above 12V both on AC and DC mode with the multimeter. The backing light for the vapour doesn't stay on when the bike is started which I'm sure it used to do. Can anyone confirm this?

Thanks
Jake

[GMP]

The EC harness on my '03 looked like it was made in freshmen shop class. Do you really need all that crap? If not, strip it and rewire to the minimum like our XCs. For wires that see high motion like the the headlight connection and wheel sensor, use robotics wire (more strands, more flexible). Also, route as much away from the coil and HV lead as possible.

[Jakobi]

Legally I need all that crap. Horn, blinkers, brake lights, high/low beams, speedo. etc etc. I run the bare minimum. Headlight, tail light and thats about it.

Everythings been cleaned up heaps more and I'm kicking myself for not doing it earlier. The loom was a mess. Thats my fear of electrics showing its face! Haha! It took me a whole day to nut it out and get it done, but I have a far better idea of how it all works now. Thread done!