Sachs fork valving '10 300

[Bailey28]

That is great, I'm happy to see that I can get in there with minimal intrusion. Modifying the compression stack is the first thing that I wanted to try, and it seems rather straight forward. Of the two, which would make the biggest difference for removing only one shim, the 12 or the 14?

I may keep the same oil in it for right now, just to keep the variables to a minimum after taking out one of the shims.

A question on oil, what type are you guys using? I have used Belray in the past, but I noticed much more stiction with the Belray with my WP forks on an older KTM.

If you are using 5W oil, what have you been putting in?

[Synergy-Seals]

From what I understand these forks are and look very similar to the older wp forks.
two much needed mods was to use a lighter mv spring and set the gap to .9 or 1.0mm
The lighter spring helped alot with the harshness because the stiffer oem spring shut the gap way too fast along with a stronger holding force. The lighter spring kind of acts like a bleed for the little abrupt hits. It let's the fluid pass!

Rob

[Bailey28]

Hey guys, got into the fork this afternoon. The base valve nut is a 19mm and came out rather easily with the legs compressed a little.

I didn't drain or change the oil as I wanted to feel the valving changes and not have too many variables.

I took the stack apart and moved a 12mm shim to the existing crossover 12mm shim. My new stack is this:

24, 12, 12, 20, 16, 14, 10, 10.

I saw two small 1mm bleed holes in the piston, and a hard silver shim on top that floated up and down with the spring. I kept the LS clicker at 10 out, and the rebound at 11 out.

The bike rode great, and testing in the yard with some 6-7" diameter logs proved that the front was now a bit softer than the rear. The bike tracked great, turned great, and felt connected.

Still, I tinkered more:

I took it apart and went to:
24, 12, 12, 20, 16, 10, 10. I left out the 14 thinking it would be even softer on sharp hits..........WRONG! The bike seemed harsh and it wallowed a bit in front. Maybe too far down in the stroke? It was as harsh or harsher than before I started.


So I returned to my 1st set up. I got the idea of moving the 12mm from the second stack to the 1st one from this post where TNT Cycle did some work:

Originally Posted by TNT Cycle

Forks seals could be going? Mine never built up much pressure until they had some hours on them. Iam at 65 hours and they will build up quickly now as the seals allow air to bypass as they move.

I did some revalving with my 2010 sachs and love the results. I took the 12mm shim from the base of the base valving and added it to the crossover. I took the midvalve apart and removed one check plate shim and reassembled. Oil level is set at 100mm. The results are brillant for my 155pound self. I did moto and trail riding to test it out and couldnt believe the difference.

cheers,

Rick

I, at this point, cannot get into the midvalve as I have no tools to further take apart the fork to try the rest of this mod. I weigh 185lbs, not 155 like TNT cycle. BUT, come oil change time I would like to get in there and take out this extra check plate shim he talks about. Am I correct in thinking that he took the 12mm out from the base of the stack and added it back in between the 24 and 20, with the other 12? I can't imagine where else it would go. But then again, I am just learning this new mystery!

Any suggestions on what to do to just this compression stack to get rid of more HS damping would be great!

[Synergy-Seals]

Your midvalve float is where you need to go

Rob

[Bailey28]

I figured as much.... to get to the good stuff, I need to take it apart.

I don't plan on putting any suspension tuners out of business here, but I would like to get a tool to hold the cartridge. The whole "heat it up" thing scares me regarding the cartridge.

[twowheels]

Originally Posted by Bailey28

I figured as much.... to get to the good stuff, I need to take it apart.

I don't plan on putting any suspension tuners out of business here, but I would like to get a tool to hold the cartridge. The whole "heat it up" thing scares me regarding the cartridge.

Good luck with the "get a tool". Think more like "make a tool". And you don't need to heat the cartridge to molten ... just almost I've found the Sachs cartridge seal heads like to be heated coming off AND going back together. A good heat gun will take care of it - just remember there is a seal inside there

[Bailey28]

Too bad the cartridge end with the midvalve and rebound stack doesn't pop out of the end of the cartridge tube if I drain the oil and collapse the fork.

I am at about the limit of confidence here with doing the base valve which was way easier than I thought it would be.

I can make tools in the garage. Hell, for a cartridge holder on my KDX forks, I took the rear axle off, cleaned it really well and used the hex end to hold the cartridge inside while I broke the base valve loose! 22mm IIRC on that one. Those forks were really easy as they had no rebound control, aside from a tube with holes in it. The Sachs seemed much more complicated.

I guess I could go inside for a true oil change as well. And check on the 1mm spacer that Steve mentioned was cracked and coned on his fork.

It's true!! once you get inside, it is hard to stop. Especially after getting (apparently) so close to the mid valve. I dream about getting to the mid valve at night!!