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Enduro Suspension Tuning & maintenance of Enduro forks, shocks, etc


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  #11  
Old 03-04-2014, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by pscook View Post
There are two steel bushings in the cases that the swingarm bolt pass through. More than likely the bolt has rusted to these bushings. If possible, take the bike as far apart as possible, down to the frame, swinger, and engine. The steel bolt doesn't touch any aluminum in any location on these bikes, everything is steel-to-steel contact, which allows rust to propagate with reckless abandon.

Apply penetrating oil between the swinger and the engine cases. Heat won't work right here because you have to get the heat past a fair bit of aluminum, and the cases and swinger will just soak up the heat. You need to get the oil in this small spot and get the oil to wick between the parts. Some heat will work, just don't get too carried away as you will start to get diminishing returns (burning things up).

See about getting a rivet gun with an aluminum drive bar (punch) and have at it. The bolt was stuck on my bike (2011) and it took quite a while, with lots of swearing and beating, to get it out.

God luck.
Not sure what year his bike is, but I don't ever recall seeing a steel sleeve pressed into the cases? Then again, I"ve never had my cases split. I have my bike down to the frame right now, I'll check my cases for future reference.


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  #12  
Old 03-04-2014, 07:11 PM
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I wouldn't go too nuts with the big hammer approach. Depending on where it's stuck you could stuff the frame or crack something. I've restored a few vintage mx bikes, and where the swing arm bolt is beyond help I've actually slid one of those very thin grinder blades in to cut it loose. You're up for a new bolt obviously, but at least you're not replacing anything else.
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Old 03-04-2014, 08:20 PM
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You want to make it move use something like this. Whether or not it's a smart way of going about it I can't say.

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Old 03-04-2014, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by paulos View Post
I wouldn't go too nuts with the big hammer approach. Depending on where it's stuck you could stuff the frame or crack something. I've restored a few vintage mx bikes, and where the swing arm bolt is beyond help I've actually slid one of those very thin grinder blades in to cut it loose. You're up for a new bolt obviously, but at least you're not replacing anything else.
Agreed. Flogging it to the point that things break isnt the goal. Patience and persistance alternating between decent impacts and then allowing time for penetrating oils to work is what will get the job done.

Last resort cutting it out works, and then pressing out the individual sections.
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Old 03-04-2014, 08:55 PM
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Hit it with penetrating oil and high freq vibrations. Use a hammer drill on hammer only and set the hammerdrill bit bit onto a socket or something the size of the rod to take the impact, use little pressure you're just trying to transfer the vibrations. Works the oil everywhere and breaks everything down. Only used this on other stuck metals.
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Old 03-04-2014, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick View Post
Not sure what year his bike is, but I don't ever recall seeing a steel sleeve pressed into the cases? Then again, I"ve never had my cases split. I have my bike down to the frame right now, I'll check my cases for future reference.
I remember my 2002 had them, but then again I remember things wrong a lot. I will say that every dirt bike (a dozen?) I have serviced has the sleeves in the case, so maybe I'm just remembering info from another bike.
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Old 03-05-2014, 01:01 AM
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when reinstalling the bolt is it better to grease it or use copper compound (anti sieze)? My feeling is copper as i have found that if left the grease can dry out and forms a kind of gum, but i have not used copper comp on something like this so am not sure
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Old 03-05-2014, 01:24 AM
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I know this sound silly but you should try vinegar it is a very mild acid and will eat away some of the rust to free the bolt. I have used this for head bolts on older engines with success. You will need to lie the bike one side and pour small amounts around the thread area and let it work it's way in and continue this over a day or two..
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Old 03-05-2014, 06:58 AM
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Also a round wire brush, kinda like a bore brush for a rifle works good in cleaning out the bore in the cases of all corrosion to help keep it from reoccuring again.

Good luck!
Great advice!
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  #20  
Old 03-05-2014, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Longboardr View Post
You want to make it move use something like this. Whether or not it's a smart way of going about it I can't say.

Don't beat on it. Use a press to apply steady pressure till it breaks free. Use the press after a couple of days of a penetrating oil like penetrol.
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