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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc. |
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#11
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Dido the throttle with different reels, I rode a buddys 300 with one and it made it a dog (for me) perfect for him.
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#12
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Right but opening a valve before there is sufficient vacuum is pointless. Its liek throwing a 45 dcoe on a single cylinder and wondering why it does not work wot off idle. Big hole no vacuum to draw fuel to create venturi effect. I wanted to try a adjustable pv but had my doubts that it would be benicial. Otherwise why not just pin the valve open then.
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#13
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#14
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#15
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sorry i was not trying to argue or be a ass. What i am trying to convey is the power valve is tuned to open where it does. Making it open sooner does nothing but cause lag. Sort of a spool up issue. Now making it open later is a different story. remove some shims and prolong the low end grunt to its max. then POP it opens. According to my tach i have setup on my 240 the pv slams open right at 5,500 and starts to open at 4900. FWIW YMMV.
All i was trying to say is opening it earlier in the rpm range will hurt it more than anything. There is just not enough velocity at that rpm to change the harmonic....I digress |
#16
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Are you saying the cck hampered performance or just made it linear. I threw in a cck right when i bought mine and yanked the triple. Wondering if its worth it power wise to trough it back in or if its just a feel difference on the power onset.
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#17
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Just like on the KTM's you could benefit from ajusting when the pv open, and it's not pinned open in high pos. it's only helped to open a little sooner so you still have vacum to make it run off idle, but dont expect to run slow tight, tech stuff in the high pos. but as you can ajust it on the fly, just turn it down in the woods for low down power and turn it back up for the open sections.
You're right that you have almost no bottom end power when you open the valve sooner, but for a dessert ride or a mx track it's not an issue since you almost pin the throttle wide open all the time for that kind of riding. Anyhoot I don't use the high setting, but I really like the down low trials like power it gives me when i turn it down. I did not try re jetting yet but it's my plan to try it soon, but what is best, the JD kit or the cck needle?
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Henrik Schmidt Faster, Faster!! Until the Thrill of Speed, Overcomes the Fear of Death.. Team YamaGas Racing. http://bricksite.com/teamyamagasracing |
#18
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Obviously none of us ever achieve the perfect mixture of air/fuel from idle to top with our jetting..
Different needles just provide different mixtures at different times. A richer mixture will feel more torquey and tractable, where a leaner mixture will rev harder and faster. While one may make more power, it might not be of benefit due to the way its delivered. Sometimes less is more. The tapered needles have transitions where the tapers change and the jetting changes. |
#19
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No offense, but you've got the wrong bike. A 300 with 2k-3 ignition is what you are looking for.
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'15 YAMAHA WR250F, '75 YAMAHA TY80 Gone: '00 380 EXC, '03 EC300, '07 YZ250, '07 250 XC-W, '08 YZ450F, '12 CRF250R |
#20
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FWIW, I had a hell of a time with jetting until I switched to the LTR needle.
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2004 GasGas DE250 |
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