Questions on a new bike? 2010 EC300

[husley]

I missed the part about the plug appearing lean.

Yikes, like they said... find out what is going on inside that carb.

[binsel]

I am using Motul 800 1:40 and Motul Transoil for gearbox.
I am not comfortable working with carbs especially without a service manual (does not exist!). I guess I need to take it to my dealer 2+ hours away.

Thanks to all.

[husley]

Originally Posted by binsel

I am using Motul 800 1:40 and Motul Transoil for gearbox.
I am not comfortable working with carbs especially without a service manual (does not exist!). I guess I need to take it to my dealer 2+ hours away.

Thanks to all.

I knew nothing about Carbs the first time I tore into one.

Between the folks on here and the ton of info on other sites I think you would have no problem figuring out which jets/needle you have. If this is something as simple as having the incorrect jets you would need nothing more then two screw drivers to fix it.

[Neil E.]

Burhan,
Do you have a digital camera with good macro settings? Take a few pictures of the plug after a ride in an open area and again after riding tight trails. Post the pictures here. I can swap the needle for you, it's easy to do (or show you how to do it). ScottyR or Rob Lang should have enough info to suggest a better needle.
My carb is the AS II, so any settings I come up with won't be ideal for your AS I carb. Depending on how you ride, you might be transitioning alot between the pilot jet and needle.
Neil

Years ago roadracers would fine tune their jetting by changing the oil mix ratio. More oil per unit volume of fuel results in slightly leaner operation.

[gasser]

Originally Posted by binsel

Hi All,



2) Oil from silencer: I am using 1:40 ratio Motul 800. Should I be using 1:50 ratio as stated on the manual? After 1 or 2 rides, the engine does not start-up at first kick, but it takes several. If I change the spark plug, it starts-up at first kick again. Maybe the rich ratio fouling the plug? By the way, plug insulator is all bright white. Should I be using a hotter plug?

3) Old mixture in tank: This is my first 2T. I drain the mixture after each ride. It takes extra time. Is it ok to leave it in tank for next week's ride?

Burhan

Try a different oil. GasGas 300s don't generate very high combustion temperatures when ridden a gear high and lugged a lot. I've tried Motul 800 and at 50/1 it spooges like crazy. The reason is that oil's flash point is too high for the way I ride. Every oil is designed to burn away when it reaches a certain temperature. Unburned oil and combustion byproducts mix to create spooge. The 2 stroke oils that I've used had flash points(the temp at which they burn) ranging from 187-237degrees Fahrenheit. Amsoil Interceptor is 187, Amsoil Dominator is 198, Amsoil Sabre flash point is 237. I've run Sabre at 75/1 and it still spooged when the going got slow and technical yet the Interceptor is fairly clean when mixed at 43/1. I think you will be much happier with a lower flash point oil like Amsoil Interceptor, Champion Water Pumper, or Maxima K2.

[mrkartoom]

Originally Posted by gasser

Try a different oil. GasGas 300s don't generate very high combustion temperatures when ridden a gear high and lugged a lot. I've tried Motul 800 and at 50/1 it spooges like crazy. The reason is that oil's flash point is too high for the way I ride. Every oil is designed to burn away when it reaches a certain temperature. Unburned oil and combustion byproducts mix to create spooge. The 2 stroke oils that I've used had flash points(the temp at which they burn) ranging from 187-237degrees Fahrenheit. Amsoil Interceptor is 187, Amsoil Dominator is 198, Amsoil Sabre flash point is 237. I've run Sabre at 75/1 and it still spooged when the going got slow and technical yet the Interceptor is fairly clean when mixed at 43/1. I think you will be much happier with a lower flash point oil like Amsoil Interceptor, Champion Water Pumper, or Maxima K2.

That's very interesting. I've never really taken flash points into account, but rather tended to stick with oils that I know and are locally available. I'm curious how oil flash points relate to protection and lubrication at various engine temps. Would one want to stay away from low flash point oils if they are on the pipe a lot, or do they all offer similar protection regardless?

[gasser]

[QUOTE=binsel;63465]Hi All,


2) Oil from silencer: I am using 1:40 ratio Motul 800. Should I be using 1:50 ratio as stated on the manual?
3) Old mixture in tank: This is my first 2T. I drain the mixture after each ride. It takes extra time. Is it ok to leave it in tank for next week's ride?

Don't get hung up on what the manual recommends for gas/oil mixture. They say 50 to 1 (or 2%) because that is what they used when jetting the bike. Pick an oil that you trust and like and mix it at the ratio the oil maker designed it for then rejet your bike if needed.
As for leaving gas in your tank for a week I do it all the time but I only use non-ethanol fuel.

[stainlesscycle]

Originally Posted by gasser

As for leaving gas in your tank for a week I do it all the time but I only use non-ethanol fuel.

yep -

i run 50/50 93/110 - i store it in a metal container. i can tell no difference if fuel sits for a week or 2 in tank. maybe a month and degradation/evaporation would effect performance...

[Bailey28]

On a very hot day when riding the bike hard on a sandy mx track, could some of the intake fuel charge evaporate before it reaches the combustion chamber making the bike run lean?

I was running a 35 pilot with a DDL needle on the track. In the morning the bike ran great. I noticed the hotter it got and the longer I rode the bike seemed to get real lean on the bottom end, like when coasting into a corner or slowing down at the end of a long straight.

I wound up screwing in the air screw almost all the way to get it from sounding too lean here. I bumped back to a 38 pilot and I will test again as it is getting even hotter but it got lean.

[GMP]

Everyone has there own opinion on oil/ratios, here is some science to either back up or dispute yours:

http://www.maximausa.com/tech-tips/oil-migration.php

Migration anaylisis using a radioactive tracer. Short answer is that a 250 should see a 40:1 minimum for adequate lubrication in racing applications, but may be adfjusted to suit use. Now, other studies have shown that the more oil, the better the ring sealing and power, as long as jetting is corrected. I can tell you for sure that at 36:1 Amsoil Dominator, performance and engine life is outstanding. A piston with 85 hrs was well within spec and replaced for potential fatigue, not wear reasons. Spooges a bit, not excessive, but I don't care about spooge.

I've been draining my tank into a steel VP race fuel can if I do not plan on riding again in the next few days. If it sits for more than a couple weeks it gets reallocated to weed wacker fuel. I've also been using the Startron fuel additive to negate the ethanol, with Gulf 93 pump gas. I used to do the 50/50 race gas mix but it just got too expensive. Bike runs great.