The Lectron - Review (vs SmartCarb)

[drehwurm]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

It also warped the small flat washer that sits between it and the circlip.

It is a "wave-washer" acting like a spring to keep tension on the rod and adjusting mechanism from above. So better not make it flat

Michael

[drehwurm]

Originally Posted by Diggs345

Jake , the clicker on mine had stopped working , i stripped mine dow to find the part in the end of the grub screw had fallen out , i managed to get it back in though

It will fall out again. What you can do is take a piece of steel and make a small indentation with a drill bit that is a bit larger in diameter then the grub screw. Put the tip of the grub screw into the indentation and start tapping with a hammer carefully. You want to close the tip just as much that it will not fall out but still can move.

I converted to a steel ball/spring setup from a WP suspension clicker setup, but that required re-drilling and tapping the hole.

Michael

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by drehwurm

It is a "wave-washer" acting like a spring to keep tension on the rod and adjusting mechanism from above. So better not make it flat

Michael

Never realised that.. Its still the shape it was Heading out for a ride in the morning..

Thinking about it some more. The spring below the D washer also puts pressure/tension up against the entire assembly from below. I think you could very possibly remove the wave washer completely and it would still work just fine, although he adjuster probably wouldn't turn as easily against the circlip as it does against the washer.

[drehwurm]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

I think you could very possibly remove the wave washer completely and it would still work just fine, although he adjuster probably wouldn't turn as easily against the circlip as it does against the washer.

No, the spring for the rod and the wave washer work independently. Without the wave washer the "clicks" would not work. Looking forward to the report with the new rod!

Michael

[Diggs345]

Originally Posted by drehwurm

It will fall out again. What you can do is take a piece of steel and make a small indentation with a drill bit that is a bit larger in diameter then the grub screw. Put the tip of the grub screw into the indentation and start tapping with a hammer carefully. You want to close the tip just as much that it will not fall out but still can move.

I converted to a steel ball/spring setup from a WP suspension clicker setup, but that required re-drilling and tapping the hole.

Michael

Thanks for the info , do you have any pics of your modification .

[drehwurm]

Originally Posted by Diggs345

Thanks for the info , do you have any pics of your modification .

Sorry, no pictures. I think this is also the way those are produced - very basic. Take a set screw, drill a hole in it, slot the tip, insert spring and pin, use a press/hammer to deform the tip so that the pin is secured inside. Nevertheless if there is too much side-pressure on the pin when going from one detention to the next it will work the pin loose. Happened to quite a few people already and some more probably just haven't noticed

Michael

[Jakobi]

I ended up going leaner as the day progressed, maybe another 5 clicks from where I was, but in hindsight I may go one richer again just to bump the torque back up. Where I am now feels very similar to where I was before on the old needle. I still have a bit of blubber and load up in the single track, but it definitely doesn't bog as badly when cracking the throttle. I managed to make it carry on when I was lugging up a snotty section in second gear low in the revs. Its pretty crisp on the pipe and will loft the front on song in 5th gear. I think its currently a touch lean as it feels punchier a bit richer, but then I get more of the loading up burbling. I may just have to change my riding style to suit. It also seems to run a bit inconsistant, like if I ride it really hard it feels good, but then if I lugg it it loads up and burbles more. The problem is that a typical ride for me consists of a bit of both. Techy 1st and 2nd gear single track through to open 4th and 5th gear windys, as well as everything in between.

Fuel consumption wise I hit reserve at 91kms, from a full tank.

[drehwurm]

Seems like where I've been at also. I tried to go lower on the float level and it really pronounced the lean spot after 1/4 throttle. So maybe going a bit higher on the float level, from 20 to 18/19 for example, could take care of the lean spot while still being able to use a lean clicker position for a clean off idle area. I also have a replacement rod coming, but unfortunately I will have a different bike by then so I can't directly compare.

Michael

[flybars]

How does the SC compare to the 90% Lectron now Jakobi?

[Jakobi]

I was thinking of going the other way michael and trying a lower float level, and a richer needle position. It may also just be the way the carb is and I'll have to adjust the riding style to suit. Its not horrible or unridable like this.

With the inconsistancies I wonder if its float related. You said you saw improvements with polishing the seat. I may see if Corey will send out one of the other valves to try.

Flybars, atm I'd say the SC is about where I had the Lectron when I changed it out.