air screw doesnt afected RPM

[nelly001]

got the nedj in the post today assembled the carb nedj middle clip 48 pilot then 40 pilot then 42 pilot whatever i done i could not get the air screw todo anything.i can get it to idle with the idle screw halfway out but it will suddenly increase revs for no reason and the only way to get it back down is to pull the choke for a second.dont know if i should get a 38 pilot and try that.the only other bike i have jetted successfully was a 2006 kx 250 and i ended up with a 36 pilot in that.when riding the bike coming off throttle the engine makes a ding ding or a cak cak noise and it has got a jerky feel to it.hope i made some sense.

[Jakobi]

The hanging;racing idle as it heats uip indicates you are still a bit lean on the mixture. Also indicatded by the choke bringing it back down.

I have faced this problem in the past too where you can continue to go smaller on the pilot and continue to turn the idle screw out (lower the slide) to maintain the correct idle mix. The problem is that you'll end up too lean to get a good resp off idle.

At idle my Air screw doesn't effect the engine rpm in a really big way, until you ride it and then its very noticable for even a change as small as 1/8th.

What clip position was the needle in? Where was the AS. When it would hang a bit what did a half a turn in on the AS do?

[hannesd]

maybe a clogged AS circuit?

[nelly001]

needle was on top clip airscrew did nothing.im thinking its got an air leak somewhere.when idling it was perfect but reving up for no reason is weird.

[Simmo737]

Originally Posted by nelly001

needle was on top clip airscrew did nothing.im thinking its got an air leak somewhere.when idling it was perfect but reving up for no reason is weird.

Brass screw on top of cap? Mine was cross threaded fom factory and I got a couple more turns and changed my jetting completely (for the good) my hose clamp to the reeds was also not tight, that may have contributed.

[Jakobi]

Affirmative all.

Drop the drain plug on carb bowl again. Pull the pilot and blow out to be sure. Check the fuel in the bottom of the bowl for contamination. Check the top plate of the carb where the throttle cable comes in, and also the plunger for the choke (if you're still using cable handle bar mounted one i'd recommend changing it for the old plunger style). Check your air boots, particularly the reed side one. They are prone to getting small tears especially if over tightened. Reassemble all and triple check the kick start side of the airbox side boot. I use a torch to make sure its on properly. Try again. If its still racing try the old wd40 around the carb parts while listening for changes.

[nelly001]

what brass screw.the carb has a screw on top and a plunger choke.

[Jakobi]

The newer model PWK's have a flat plate top cover as opposed to the older screw cap. Different design.

[nelly001]

ok removed the carb today looks as if the inlet rubber has stretched cant seem to get a tight fit. i think this must be the problem but i will strip and clean the carb.i just bought some silicone hose from ebay 45mm inside diametre to join the inlet manifold to the carb with some new stainless hose clips.need to get this thing sorted this week already missed 1 race this weekend and had to explain that gas gases are good bikes.not easy when all their ktms made the start line.

[drn51]

OK, finaly the needle NEDJ arrived!
can I have recomendation for strating point?

curently run my ec300 2011 with stock setup:
n1ef#1( going to replace with the NEDJ), p40, main 175
carb 38 with two screw on the top.
20 degree C and about 200m

Thanks!