Hardparts fan kit

[Neil E.]

The best method for you might be to create a separate small floating/isolated rectified system.

Your AC (which has one side grounded as stock) is fed into a full wave rectifier (TrailTech regulator-rectifier or similar). The rectifier OUTPUT is NOT grounded and is treated just like DC battery voltage. This can be hooked up as explained in the previous post.

The only down side is that the fan may run slower at idle (just like the headlight is dimmer at idle). So the headlight AC supply (yellow wire off the stator) and chassis ground are connected to the rectifier input.

Alternatively you could use the white stator wire and chassis ground to the rectifier input. The voltage output on the white wire is bit higher. As previously mentioned you must know the workings of the relay to ensure it meets your needs.

In your case I think you could do away with the relay completely and just let the thermoswitch carry power to the fan. Note that I used the word thermostat in the previous post; the correct name is thermoswitch. Does the fan have a current rating listed on it? Does the thermoswitch also have a current rating? Maybe googling the part numbers will find some details.

[Pinittowinit]

What is the contraption on the 11's right rad hose

[Neil E.]

That is just a thermostat to control liquid flow for cooling. I found it to be uneccessary and removed it. It does not have any sort of switching ability.

If you could find a hose "T" with a threaded boss on the T side, you could install it in place of the thermostat. Then thread your thermoswitch into that boss.

[swazi_matt]

That fan is basically the same that they use on the GG trials bikes.
I fitted the same setup a while back but with a manual switch on the bars (no Thermo switch)
I have mine on the left radiator with the rad hose actually putting some pressure on the back of the fan motor.
Interesting thing that you should check once it is all connected. I found that the first time i had it on it would turn the fan at idle, but as soon as the revs picked up the fan would stop turning. I had my power coming from the light switch and i just reversed the connection and from then on it has worked fine (all the time the fan was turning in the right direction). As mentioned earlier the fan turns slower at idle just like the light - it does not get fast enough to actually pull you over rocks like an airplane propeller though!

One thing to also take note of is that while the fan cowling improves the efficiency of the fan and the fans cooling it also means that should the fan stop working the bike will heat up quicker and boil where it would not boil without the fan installed

[Pinittowinit]

I think the best way is to eliminate the thermoswitch and relay totally and just wire it up with a switch. On my husqvarna I used a GG map switch. Lol I think I will do the same here.
So Motorcycle AC confuses me, can someone please explain it for dummys? I get the stator produces AC and then it goes.. To the voltage reg. so let's use the headlight for example... X amount of AC voltage goes into the light... This is where I get confused is there a ground? The headlight plug right by the forks has like 3 pins getting power. And even another bullet connector getting power as well. So power wise what exactly is going on? Power goes in... Where does power come out? Or does it?
I actually designed a 1k watt plug and play led headlight for the H4 bulbs but have been burning up drivers. Maybe this is where my problem is. The ground if any haha and yes the driver takes 6-28vAC and converts it to 12vdc constant. Thanks guys for the help

[Pinittowinit]

Got the fan installed using cherrymax rivets. I hope they didn't expect me to use the sheetmetal screws that they included haha

[Neil E.]

Read up on voltage rectifier/regulators to see what they do. Let's assume you have a non-estart bike (no battery). The stator produces AC power which goes to a voltage regulator. This simply clips the maximum AC voltage when the engine revs up (to prevent blowing bulbs).

Let's also assume you have a 2K3 ignition, so we know there are three stator connections. One is frame/engine ground. The second is the yellow wire which equates to "most of the windings". The third is the white wire which equates to "all of the windings". As far as I know the white wire is only used on the estart bikes.

So you have ~13 volts AC between the yellow wire and ground. That is your normal voltage source. This source is switched to the low beam, high beam, city light and tail light. Remember that the ground is part of the system so it connects to the headlamp, thus you have 3 wires (high/low/ground).

It's a very simple setup, just follow the factory wiring diagram.

[Pinittowinit]

I appreciate it. I'm actually printing it up right now. I'll let ya know how it goes haha

[Pinittowinit]

Got it!! The little headlight switch was a SPDP so I got a DPDT, up is headlight on, center everything off, down fan on

[swazi_matt]

Originally Posted by Pinittowinit

Got the fan installed using cherrymax rivets. I hope they didn't expect me to use the sheetmetal screws that they included haha

for those of you with radiator guards, you can fit the fan without rivets just by clamping the cowling with the guards