Vfrorce reed valve?

[GMP]

First off I moved this thread to the proper forum.

Yes, you are correct in that the area to smooth or polish is the potential reed contact area. To do this right you have to pull the top end, you can leave the piston on the rod. I put it at approx TDC and secured it to the front studs with zip ties. This gives you room to work. Put a sock or rag over it for protection. Wipe down the crank/case area with contact cleaner to remove oil, and go to town with masking tape, sealing up any path for debri to fall into the cases. Ever see a surgery? Think that way. Now, with the reed block still installed, move the upper and lower petals to where they contact the case surfaces, and mark the cases just foward of this. You will be able to see if this area is flat and smooth or not, and what you will have to remove to make it that way. Pay particular attention to the corners and where the cases meet. Next, get a fine, flat file and coat the front with grease to trap filings as well as the area to be worked on. Simply take your time and slowly work the area to remove the rough surface and make the area flat. You work from the rear and will need a mirror to see the top. Use a shop vac to clear out the filings as you go. Frequently refit the reed, move the petals, and see how it looks. Finish with a scotch brite pad. Remember its just for a smooth contact area so it does not have to be actually polished like a mirror. When your satisfied, clean everything up carefully, and reinstall the top end.

Its a bit time consuming but if your having unexplained reed life problems its worth it. My bikes have had excellent reed life following this.

[farmerj]

Great explanation, Glenn.

Thank you!

Jeff

[Gasgasogeros]

Hi my solution for reed problems on gasgas with boyesen rad reeds 1) by reed case from honda cr250 model from 1987-2001 2) move the torque spacer from cylinder side behind the reed case 3) cut the boyesen rad case like photo 4) replace the bolts with 1 cm longer pout all together end finish
the reeds going 1 cm deeper to motor case so the reeds don't touch the metal of motor case like gmp say

[GMP]

FWIW, I never had an issue with the older Boyesen RAD valve reeds cracking. I did noticethat the fiberglass became sticky, seemed like a fuel compatibility issue. The RAD valve had only two reed surfaces at a steeper angle for plenty of clearance in the old motors. I did a VForce conversion on an '03, and because of the VForce four petal design there would absolutely be reed contact with the cases, so this mod was a neccessity.

[farmerj]

Originally Posted by GMP

Also, you should polish the intake where the upper and lower outboard reeds can make contact. This is easiest with the top end removed. Reed life will suffer if they contact the rough casting. I spoke to a Moto Tassinari engineer, and the reed petal can move as much as 9mm without restriction. The clearance in the '03 cases was approx 5mm on my bike, so you can assume contact.

Glenn,

(1) The '05 & up cases changed, in that they no longer have the "hump" that used to house the counterbalancer. Do you figure that the reed petal clearance issues are still the same on the newer bikes as they were on your '03 (5mm)?

(2) While I want to do it right, I'm pressed for time. Is there any risk beyond damaged reeds from running the DF II without doing the polishing?

(3) The reeds in the used reed valve that I purchased show some wear or slight chipping on the corners. If I run these reeds, can small pieces break off and cause cylinder scoring or other issues, or do the fibers just disintegrate?

I'm wondering about running the old reeds and saving the new ones I bought for after I get the polishing done.

Thanks for your insight.

Jeff

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by farmerj

Glenn,

(1) The '05 & up cases changed, in that they no longer have the "hump" that used to house the counterbalancer. Do you figure that the reed petal clearance issues are still the same on the newer bikes as they were on your '03 (5mm)?

(2) While I want to do it right, I'm pressed for time. Is there any risk beyond damaged reeds from running the DF II without doing the polishing?

(3) The reeds in the used reed valve that I purchased show some wear or slight chipping on the corners. If I run these reeds, can small pieces break off and cause cylinder scoring or other issues, or do the fibers just disintegrate?

I'm wondering about running the old reeds and saving the new ones I bought for after I get the polishing done.

Thanks for your insight.

Jeff

2010 EC, The reeds definatey touch the cases. In my bike it appears the reeds themself have been working on the cases to smooth them out. I blew through one set of reeds around 120hrs (from memory). Interestingly the only one which was frayed and cracked was the lower RHS one.

[farmerj]

Thanks for the pic, Jakobi. So the new bikes need polishing, too?! Maybe letting a set of reeds do the job isn't a bad idea - unless they chip and pieces of the reed break off...

Has anyone else noticed their reeds smoothing out the intake area?

Jeff

[GMP]

The cases function as a reed stop. The factory does not detail this area on the production bikes, factory bikes who knows. One thing that will break reeds is if the center case gasket protrudes up into the tract area. Trim this flush with a razor. Just make sure there is no obvious bad spots especially on the corners, button it up and ride. Next time the top end is off you can take your time and do it right.

[farmerj]

Thank you, will do!

Jeff

[noobi]

Just dug into my 07 200 that wasn't starting.
Found daylight



Also, not a VForce like I assumed.
Can I use CR250 reeds? Is it worth upgrading to the VForce, and can I use a Honda VForce cage and reeds?