Another jetting issue(imagine that)

[GMP]

Another note: The needle retainer is a cheap soft alloy that sometimes seizes in the slide, especially on an older bike and/or if any moisture made its way in the top through the cable ferrule. Get a SIX POINT 6mm socket, or you will lilely strip it. If its too tight to remove holding it, wrap it in a rag and slide it loosely between the jaws of a vise to hold it. Antiseize this on replacement.

[bowhunter007]

Ok, I got the needles out of both carbs before work this morning. The only stamp on the current needle being used, CCK. The needle from the Kawi, is stamped N0ZE(O or zero, you might know, I don't). The CCK needle is heftier, by far. The Kawi needle almost appears dainty, setting side by side, next to the CCK. The slide from the Kawi is a notched #7. Which needle should I use?
BTW, nurses don't seem to appreciate me carrying in 'cycle parts & playing with them in the room

Note: The hospital isn't where I work

[Jakobi]

THE NOZE is very similar to the stock N1EF.

NOZ = half clip leaner than N1E (same taper profile).
E = one step richer on diameter than the F.

You may find the NOZ a better fit than the CCK considering the CCK in clip #3 was exhibiting some lean symptoms. From here its all trial and error though. GMP gave you some good advice last page re expected sizes and possible needles for starting points.

[roostafish]

Bowhunter, we should schedule a ride and I'll bring my jetting computer with us. He is my brother in law and is a magician with jetting.

[bowhunter007]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

THE NOZE is very similar to the stock N1EF.

NOZ = half clip leaner than N1E (same taper profile).
E = one step richer on diameter than the F.

You may find the NOZ a better fit than the CCK considering the CCK in clip #3 was exhibiting some lean symptoms. From here its all trial and error though. GMP gave you some good advice last page re expected sizes and possible needles for starting points.

Thanks to everyone, who've chimed in with info and/or advice. I've sat and read, stared at carb, read some more You all have drastically shortened my learning curve. Once I'm home, I'll get her set up, and go for a spin. Thank you all.

[pscook]

Originally Posted by roostafish

Bowhunter, we should schedule a ride and I'll bring my jetting computer with us. He is my brother in law and is a magician with jetting.

Okay, I'll bite. I can drag Bowhunter along and we can double the duty of your computer. How often and how far do you get up North? Or, is there a good winter riding area midway (Portland, Vancouver, etc) from Tacoma to Eugene? I need some serious help (I think...) with my 300.

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by bowhunter007

Thanks to everyone, who've chimed in with info and/or advice. I've sat and read, stared at carb, read some more You all have drastically shortened my learning curve. Once I'm home, I'll get her set up, and go for a spin. Thank you all.

Not sure what pilot to run with, but starting with CCK#3 180 main, or NOZE#3 175 main should be very similar from 1/4 throttle up. The NOZE will be a bit richer on the bottom end.

Which ever way you go make sure you start with a baseline and only change one circuit at a time. I like to establish the idle, then move into the clip position, and then the main last. I'd probably lean towards the CCK as the NOZ needles have a really short straight section that makes setting the pilot up a pain in the bunger.

[jhendr3702]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

Not sure what pilot to run with, but starting with CCK#3 180 main, or NOZE#3 175 main should be very similar from 1/4 throttle up. The NOZE will be a bit richer on the bottom end.

Which ever way you go make sure you start with a baseline and only change one circuit at a time. I like to establish the idle, then move into the clip position, and then the main last. I'd probably lean towards the CCK as the NOZ needles have a really short straight section that makes setting the pilot up a pain in the bunger.

my 250 was a sea level bike.. 45 pilot, 180 main and cek, which is 2 clips leaner i think than a cck... we are close to 4000' here, but corrected air is over 5000.. the bike ran fine here, but was a bit too rich..

[GMP]

First get the Kaw PWK cleaned and the floats adjusted. Notched #7 slide will work, but in my recent experience the bike will want a richer pilot than that used for a non-notched slide. Different than what I was told but results don't lie. I'm up to a 48 now and its pretty good. If you want to buy your way out, and get an excellent result, JD is the way to go. If it didn't work so well on the 250s with the older PWK Air Stryker I wouldn't recommend spending the $, but it does. Other than that, look in the database for various 250 solutions for your altitude. Start on the rich side to get there quicker and safer. 180-182 main for the fat tip needles, 178 for the OEMs like the NOZ/NIE series. Note that this IS NOT a newer PWK and much of the jetting info discussed here is irrelevant as its too lean. The NED/NEC series Suzuki needles are an example, I could never get anything to work that did not have that flat, lean feel down low.

FWIW, here are my specs:

'12 GG 250R, PWK Air Stryker I
0 - 1000'
50 - 70 deg

#7 slide (notched)
48 pilot
JD Blue #3
180 main
air screw 1.25 turns

[bowhunter007]

I finally made it home. I purchased a 180 main. I used the NOZE needle(clip in the middle). The store was out of pilot jets, so my only choices are 35 or 45. I ran the air/fuel screw 1.5 turns out. which pilot jet...Hmmmm
I'm thinking richer is better. I'm used to carb tuning, from my drag car days. 2-stroke carbs I think are more finicky, but easier to deal with. At least I understand the basics, and have place to start minus deciding on a pilot.