2011 ASII 36 Jetting - what were they thinking?

[mrkartoom]

Originally Posted by CACTUSREID

mrkartoom, have you tried a leaner slide? myself.i"ve found that you can chase your tail forever,trying to balance pilots .needles air screws and of course the dreaded over tightened idle screw problem. change out your slide for at least 1 or 2 numbers higher than what is currently marked on it, and then sort out your jets from there. i have yet to see a gasser that has not been easier to jet and to get it to idle,when a leaner slide was installed.

I put a #8 slide on order last week and hope to see that sometime soon. I figured it was worth a try after not having much luck so far. Thanks I'll report back when I get some results.

[GMP]

Originally Posted by CACTUSREID

mrkartoom, have you tried a leaner slide? myself.i"ve found that you can chase your tail forever,trying to balance pilots .needles air screws and of course the dreaded over tightened idle screw problem. change out your slide for at least 1 or 2 numbers higher than what is currently marked on it, and then sort out your jets from there. i have yet to see a gasser that has not been easier to jet and to get it to idle,when a leaner slide was installed.

I've been saying this from the beginning and I agree 100%. Especially with the 300s, and probably even more so with the 36mm carb. A 36 will have a very strong signature on a 300.

[mrkartoom]

Originally Posted by GMP

I've been saying this from the beginning and I agree 100%. Especially with the 300s, and probably even more so with the 36mm carb. A 36 will have a very strong signature on a 300.

I'm one of these people that don't listen and have to learn the hard way.

Anyhoo mine has the 38mm throat so hopefully this will indeed help.

One of the things that has me curious about my carb (AS 2) is why it has no low pressure tower above the needle jet. I've seen skoodles of AS pics and they have. Anyone know why it doesn't have one?

[mrkartoom]

somehow I double posted.

[Neil E.]

Originally Posted by motogroove

My directions say to do the test on a warm engine. I wonder how much difference that makes. It also says to remove the air filter. Thoughts on testing cold? That would certainly be less hassle.

I doubt the foam filter will make a difference. Testing a warm engine makes sense if you are trying to get the best accuracy. On a multi-cylinder engine, the difference between cylinders is usually more important than the actual reading.

The purpose of my testing was to see that things are reasonable. You could test both ways and let us know if you find a difference.

[Fred1956]

Originally Posted by motogroove

None of the below matters if you are happy with your test numbers, but:
My directions say to do the test on a warm engine. I wonder how much difference that makes.
It also says to remove the air filter.

Thoughts on testing cold? That would certainly be less hassle.

IMO as far as the air filter goes it should be a moot point, Way more important to hold throttle at WOT..

[Neil E.]

When I installed the JD kit, I found why my bike seemed so grossly rich. The N1EF needle had the clip in the middle groove!

I set it up close to the JD recommendations. 38 pilot, 1.5T, red needle #4, but with a 175 main instead of a 170.

The large section of the stock needle measures .1065" diameter. JD's blue is a hair smaller at .1060" diameter. The JD red measures .1075" and provides the leanest idle condition.

With the 38 pilot I could get a passable idle at 1T on the air screw. Past 1.25T it was erratic. I changed to the 40 pilot and got an idle at 1.5T out. Past 1.75T it gets erratic.

Far better operation than before, but I can only tell so much going up and down the parking lot. The tachometer in the Trailtech Voyager indicates the idle is somewhere in the 2400 to 2500 RPM range. What should a typical idle speed be?

[Neil E.]

The Voyager default is a traditional 4T ignition cycle (spark every other revolution). I need to change it to the "tach/2" setting (standard 2T or wasted spark 4T).

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by Neil E.

When I installed the JD kit, I found why my bike seemed so grossly rich. The N1EF needle had the clip in the middle groove!

I set it up close to the JD recommendations. 38 pilot, 1.5T, red needle #4, but with a 175 main instead of a 170.

The large section of the stock needle measures .1065" diameter. JD's blue is a hair smaller at .1060" diameter. The JD red measures .1075" and provides the leanest idle condition.

With the 38 pilot I could get a passable idle at 1T on the air screw. Past 1.25T it was erratic. I changed to the 40 pilot and got an idle at 1.5T out. Past 1.75T it gets erratic.

Far better operation than before, but I can only tell so much going up and down the parking lot. The tachometer in the Trailtech Voyager indicates the idle is somewhere in the 2400 to 2500 RPM range. What should a typical idle speed be?

And for those who aren't using JDs needles.. This falls in line with everything thats been said before..

Diamter of needles.
JD Blue ~ E (N1EE, N3EE, NOZE)
JD Red ~ W/I (N1EI, NOZI, N3EW)

[Neil E.]

The nozzle jet shroud has a fairly large notch in it. There has been some discussion about the value of the notch.



It feels like I am getting some pull-over from the needle since the slide has to be raised to get an idle.

Should the air screw be providing all the air needed for idle if the jetting is correct? The higher the slide the poorer the quality of idle. Does a leaner slide pass more air at idle or does it only reduce the "signature" off idle?