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Enduro Chassis & Body Enduro Frame, Plastic, Brakes, Bars, Controls, wheels, tires, sprockets & gearing.


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  #51  
Old 05-29-2012, 01:41 PM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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I don't see any chest thumping going on here.. just a few different opinions with the general theme being to use what works best for you..


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  #52  
Old 05-29-2012, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swazi_matt View Post
here is a review on the clake and other JHRB by mike sigety for his erzberg trip last year.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mh2ez...8&feature=plcp
Doesn't sound like he really understood how the Clake is designed to work or tested it in other than a spin down the driveway. You don't have to click it in for clutch. I'm also read they are fully adjustable in where the clutch and brake overlap.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAb0iRzxSHo
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  #53  
Old 06-03-2012, 10:46 AM
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I spent yesterday on a borrowed 2011 GG 300 with the EXP and LHRB (and a Hyde full coverage skid plate / pipeguard). This combo was nothing short of amazing on the steep rocky sidehill switchback goat trails I rode. The EXP would find traction and climb up anything, the the freedom that the LHRB provided was liberating. I found the faster stuff to be scary and fought the transition from freewheel to engagement and back troubling, but I can adjust to that. This setup made me want to get thumb shifters and get the shift level up out of harms way. This is a very cool setup. BTW, is there a better master cyllinder than using the clutch, I felt too much effort was required to lock the rear wheel and my left hand got tired after a while.
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  #54  
Old 06-03-2012, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tm_enduro View Post
and fought the transition from freewheel to engagement and back troubling...

BTW, is there a better master cyllinder than using the clutch, I felt too much effort was required to lock the rear wheel and my left hand got tired after a while.
I have mine set up so it won't freewheel. Always have a tiny bit of creep at idle.

Careful bleeding will help the braking force available. You may try a "grabby" compound for the rear pads. They may be too touchy for the pedal, but may work better for the less force available at the hand lever.

I found that I use the pedal for most of my braking. I only use the hand lever when I'm in those tricky, long, gnarly downhill situations.
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  #55  
Old 06-26-2012, 01:51 PM
Moto7man Moto7man is offline
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Here is the new Rekluse LHRB........

http://www.cyclenews.com/showcase/vi...rear-brake-kit
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  #56  
Old 07-14-2012, 03:10 PM
Dyrtmon Dyrtmon is offline
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I just got an 07 EC 300 that has a Rekluse, and want to add a LHRB like I have on both my KTM 300s. Having just obtained this bike the evening before I had to work a 48 hour shift, I haven't had a chance to start dissecting it to find out what I need to do the rear master cylinder to make it happen. I did call Rekluse (as that's the system on my KTMs) and they make no mc insert that accommodates the brake line up to the brake lever, as I would like to keep the foot pedal. I think the rear MC is a Nissin type - Have you guys with LHRBs changed the rear MC to the KTM (Brembo?) type or somehow used the stock MC that came with the GG.....
Thanks
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  #57  
Old 07-15-2012, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyrtmon View Post
I just got an 07 EC 300 that has a Rekluse, and want to add a LHRB like I have on both my KTM 300s. Having just obtained this bike the evening before I had to work a 48 hour shift, I haven't had a chance to start dissecting it to find out what I need to do the rear master cylinder to make it happen. I did call Rekluse (as that's the system on my KTMs) and they make no mc insert that accommodates the brake line up to the brake lever, as I would like to keep the foot pedal. I think the rear MC is a Nissin type - Have you guys with LHRBs changed the rear MC to the KTM (Brembo?) type or somehow used the stock MC that came with the GG.....
Thanks
It took me awhile to find my clutch box with the info since I bought my LHRB kit from Rekluse back in 08'. Hopefully Rekluse still uses the same part numbers.
It was kit# RMS513 that fit 05-07' GG 4T and 2T.for dual-actuated rear brake.
The insert sleave is part# 180-012 that fits a Yamaha MC. The O-ring is Part# 418902 or use a #113 standard O-ring to seal the insert sleave. The brake line is part#419-003A if you are going to use the AJP hand lever MC.

Good luck on the conversion.
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  #58  
Old 07-17-2012, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HydroDog View Post
It took me awhile to find my clutch box with the info since I bought my LHRB kit from Rekluse back in 08'. Hopefully Rekluse still uses the same part numbers.
It was kit# RMS513 that fit 05-07' GG 4T and 2T.for dual-actuated rear brake.
The insert sleave is part# 180-012 that fits a Yamaha MC. The O-ring is Part# 418902 or use a #113 standard O-ring to seal the insert sleave. The brake line is part#419-003A if you are going to use the AJP hand lever MC.

Good luck on the conversion.
Thanks Hydro - The numbers you gave were the key for the guys at Rekluse to find what I needed, and they're on the way..
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  #59  
Old 07-18-2012, 01:57 PM
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So, why couldn't you run the LHRB without a auto-clutch?
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  #60  
Old 07-18-2012, 04:50 PM
Dyrtmon Dyrtmon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firffighter View Post
So, why couldn't you run the LHRB without a auto-clutch?
You certainly can, but you run the risk of stalling the bike unless you are able to simultaneously pull in the clutch lever...But for simply scrubbing off some speed, sure.
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