Can I do a rebuild myself?

[stix49]

I know this thread is probably in here somewhere but just wanted some quick opinions. Im a Audi Tech by trade and have a 2011 EC250 that has blown a fork
seal and playing with the idea of installing myself. Im gonna have the bike re sprung for me this winter and dont want to drop anymore money then I have to just for it all to be redone in a couple months. I need it to be done for the national in Missouri in 3 weeks so I feel like that is plenty of time. Any special tool info, tips.....and prayers are welcome

[Fred1956]

Which forks? It's not rocket science for sure but depending in where you are you're welcome to come down & I'll help you if you need it.

[twowheels]

Originally Posted by stix49

I know this thread is probably in here somewhere but just wanted some quick opinions. Im a Audi Tech by trade and have a 2011 EC250 that has blown a fork
seal and playing with the idea of installing myself. Im gonna have the bike re sprung for me this winter and dont want to drop anymore money then I have to just for it all to be redone in a couple months. I need it to be done for the national in Missouri in 3 weeks so I feel like that is plenty of time. Any special tool info, tips.....and prayers are welcome

It's only a fork seal - easy, peazy! Downloading the latest Audi PCM software is likely way more complicated. Without you having said which fork you have, I'm guessing a 45mm Marzocchi with a slight chance of Sachs, both of which are open cartridge and straight forward.

The short form is this - before removing the forks from the bike loosen the top clamp, then loosen the fork cap. Now is a good time to record your rebound clicker values and back the adjuster all the way out. Remove the fork legs from the clamps, then loosen the cap all the way, allowing the outer (upper) leg to slide down toward the axle clamp. Pull down on the spring and slide a wrench in on the jam nut. Unscrew the fork cap and set aside, along with the fork spring.

Slide down the dust seals and release the circlip above the oil seal. Slide hammer the upper leg off the lower leg releasing the oil seal and bushings. Carefully install the new dust and oil seals over the end of the lower leg (appropriately lubricated and protected) and use a fork seal driver to seat the oil seal and bushings in the upper leg. Install the circlip and dust seal, then let the upper leg slide fully down to the axle clamp. Fill with a good quality oil (likely 7.5wt for either of those forks), stroke the legs and the damper rod, let everything settle out, them remove excess oil until you get to your desired level.

Reinstall the spring, pull up on the damper rod and install the cap, bam - you're almost ready for the second leg.

I still remember the first set of seals I did, but I can't remember how many since then ... you'll be fine

Oh, and guess what - you've just covered the procedure to re-spring as well. Let me know when you're ready for coils ...

[Jakobi]

Don't worry mate! All these blokes on here are mechanical genuis'! I've learnt loads since joining this forum, and am seriously contemplating cracking into a shock for the first time now.

Rocky mountain atv have some good tutorial vids if you're like me and learn easier by watching someone else.
Catridge type - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y43k1qFVGW4
Twin/Closed Chamber - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0dLM_IoIOQ

[CACTUSREID]

Nice explaination 2 wheels! Only thing i can add is warm up the outer leg with a heatgun before the slide hammering step. Also cover the end of the lower leg with a plastic bag or seal installer cap before you put on the well oiled fork seal.

[GMP]

45 Zoke seals seem to go in a little harder than average from my experience, the OEM ones anyway. A little grease on the outer surface helps. When seating the bushings (first) with the driver, use the tool against the washer that goes between the bushing and seal, not directly on the bushing. These will just fall into place if the tube is warmed uncomfortable to touch. Videos are good.