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Enduro Chassis & Body Enduro Frame, Plastic, Brakes, Bars, Controls, wheels, tires, sprockets & gearing. |
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#1
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Looking for GENERAL tire advice, what kind of compound?
I have an '06 EC 300 sitting in my garage that I've only ridden around the yard (1) time with no front brake before the snow hit. I got it from a guy in Texas who raced it.
I live in CT, typical northeast terrain. The bike has a Maxxis Cross Maxx SI in the rear, and a Cross Maxx IT in the front. both tires have the sharp edges worn off, but lots of knob height left. According to literature by Maxxis, the SI rear should be a soft/intermediate tire, and the front intermediate. What scares me is that both tires FEEL hard as rock, and I thought a soft/intermediate tire (meaning for soft, intermediate terrain) should have very pliable knobs; I'm afraid that this old man will get on this thing after not having ridden for 20 years and instantly wash out the front end or spin out the rear, because the knobs are too hard and not hooking up. Will old age harden the rubber? Do I have it backwards, that soft, intermediate terrain should use a hard-as-rock tire? Someone please educate me, and not just endorse their fav tire without explanation as to why my "soft" tire feels rock hard to the touch. |
#2
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Maxxis have a very stiff sideway, generally very little flex. They are a very long lasting tire. I have used that combo before with good results here in my area. With that combo I can run lower psi due to the stiff side walls and not be too concerned with getting a pinch flat. Tires are like women.....everyone has a different taste What works for you, might not for the next guy.
They could be stiff from the cold temperatures as well? Good luck, be safe!
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Rick 99 EC 200 06 RM 250 AMA D36 375X OTHG 375S ***Thanks for the support : Twin Air /O'Neil Racing / Race 100% / Matrix Concepts / ODI / Mika Metals |
#3
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Quote:
You have got it right, a "soft" tire should feel softer than a "hard" tire. This refers to the rubber compound, not the terrain type. Generally, a soft tire offers better grip (on slippery surfaces) but wears out quicker. The tire will start loosing some of its grip as soon as the edges of the knobs gets rounded. It does not really help that the knobs still have their height if they are shaped like a dome. To regain some traction from a worn tire some cuts the knobs back to a "sharper shape" using a hot knife or similar. Another trick to use a (rear) tire after it's starting to wear out would be to turn it around to use the "other side" of the knobs.
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Anders "So you know, that you're over the hill when your mind makes a promise that your body can't fill" (Little Feat: Old Folks Boogie) 2015 EC200 Racing: TE bars, Rekluse Core Exp 3.0, 38mm Lectron & Ohlins S3 steering damper 2006 EC200: 2011 plastics, Rekluse Z-Start, revalved KYB forks & Scotts steering damper 1998 Bimota Supermono 1986 Duc Mille S2 1975 Guzzi sidecar hack 1961 Morini Corsaro 125 etc |
#4
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What I have read from different sources is that a "Soft Terrain" tire has a harder compound and sidewall to allow the knob to "pierce" the dirt, and the "Hard Terrain" tire is softer to conform to the harder terrain. This means that the label on the tire is inverse to the pliability of the carcass. An example is a trials tire, which is inherently soft and pliable, but absolutely sucks in mud and clay; yet a hard knobby is great in the loose dirt and sand. You wouldn't use a paddle tire on exposed rocks, just like you wouldn't use a trials tire in sand.
Here's some info from Michelin regarding their "soft terrain" tire, the S12: Quote:
And here's a blurb from the Trials Competition model: Quote:
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Phil (New bike pending...) |
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