Tight Linkage Bolt

[binsel]

I can not remove the bottom two bolts of the linkage on my brand-new 2010 GasGas EC300. There is not enough space for sockets, and standard wrench slips if I push hard. It's like lock-tited. I tried hitting, PB, next will be heating.
Any other ideas?

[GMP]

A box wrench goes right on, especially a 12 pt. Use a 6 pt if the position allows. Try an extension on the wrench. None of mine were never loctited, but its possible. A little heat around the bolt is OK if neccessary, and should help as the linkage bracket is aluminum, just be VERY careful as its a high stress part. They are snug but should come off without drama. Put it all back together with anti-seize.

[binsel]

It's over after 3 days I used a C clamp on the box wrench not to slip and I torch the area. I could loosen it without an extension. It should not have been that tight on a new bike.

Thanks...

[Neil E.]

There is a gorilla working at the factory. I have found a couple of Torx screws that were overtightened to the point of almost stripping out. The hole barely cleaned up with a tap. Of all the fasteners I've run across on vehicles, Torx screws have been the ones that were over torqued. It's a really stupid fastener design. The sloppy drive fit and shallow engagement depth make them almost a one-time only fastener.

[HuskyDude]

Originally Posted by Neil E.

It's a really stupid fastener design. The sloppy drive fit and shallow engagement depth make them almost a one-time only fastener.

Agreed only one worse is Phillips.
Just another good reason to rip your ride down when new and re-grease everything and as Glen has already stated use anti-seize when reassembling.

[GMP]

Ducati uses a lot of small, polished soft steel M5 button head cap screws for cosmetics, and bathes them in red loctite. Need I say more? Worst were my brother's Huskys, I swear there is not a torque wrench in that factory.