where to go from here. jetting q.

[stainlesscycle]

let me know how it works out. 42 pilot is just on the edge of lean for me. i may try 45/175 again. 178 is definitely rich. it has been my experience that these motors need slightly rich to perform properly.. everytime i get a perfect plug reading it doesn't run great. i go 1 richer and it works well..

[stainlesscycle]

on site:

http://www.gasgasons.com/index.php?s...ic&staticID=56


can anyone tell me if this is recommended settings or original factory settings?

when i translate it, it says

"Settings advocated the carburetor GasGas ec."

[stainlesscycle]

Originally Posted by stainlesscycle

m still tinkering with my 36mm, but i'm at 42/178/ddk on 2/#5 slide/1.5 turns. i'm probably gonna go to 175 on main..

tinkered with it today a bit.

42 pilot (45 pilot idles better, but 42 pilot runs better. i'm debating on what to do here..)
1.5 turns
175 main
#5 slide
ddk needle
#1 clip (i'm never at #1 clip... should i go to 172 main and #3 or #4 clip?) or do i need a thinner needle??????

[iancp5]

I'm going to my club's practice land on Sunday if the weather's dry so hope to try a few different settings. I can never tell if jetting is right or wrong unless I ride on proper enduro terrain.

[stainlesscycle]

i have the same problem. i test in the yard - but i can't really put a big load on the motor this way... yes my yard is tore up... i've been contemplating making a small bermed oval track with 1 S curve in my backyard..maybe like a mini tt track

[Jim Cook]

Originally Posted by stainlesscycle

tinkered with it today a bit.

42 pilot (45 pilot idles better, but 42 pilot runs better. i'm debating on what to do here..)
1.5 turns
175 main
#5 slide
ddk needle
#1 clip (i'm never at #1 clip... should i go to 172 main and #3 or #4 clip?) or do i need a thinner needle??????

When I was a dealer, I spent a lot of time on the phone trying to help customers properly jet their bikes, and I still get quite a few requests for tuning help from other GasGas riders.
It's much easier to do when I can ride, tweak, and ride again to test. Over the phone (and on the forum) it is much harder to do anything except make suggestions and wait for feedback.

I've been following this thread with great interest, and am always trying to learn more; so please indulge me a bit.

This is for/on your '00 200, correct? (One of my "back-up bikes is a 2000 XC200 and one of my sons and one of my best friends race two of the first ten 200cc Gassers that were imported to the US. My son races the bike that Dick Burleson rode in the first Dirt Rider test article on the 200.)

What results are you trying to achieve by the smaller 36mm carb?

Did you have any problems getting the 36mm carb to fit the air boot and intake manifold? (What adapters, if any were used to make it work?)

Thanks in advance.

Good Riding!

Jim

****************************

[stainlesscycle]

the reason i switched to 36 carb was to get a more consistent idle, and felt the 38mm carb was just plain old too big for the 200... i assumed a smaller carb could get increased fuel velocity, and gain performance......... ltr was the first to suggest the smaller carb.

no adapters of any kind. fits right in there.

how are your 200's jetted? i could never get the bike to not stall when hot with 38mm carb, unless i jacked the idle way up, and pretty much out of the idle circuit. changing pilots around got me to idle, but lost performance. it would idle fine till it got hot then slowly die. i'd have the idle screw all the way in, and start turning the throttle adjuster so much that the slide wouldn't slap shut...i'd start a race fine, then 10 minutes into it half to jack the idle way up.

[iancp5]

My bike came (used) with a 36mm. It already had some plastic adaptors that are clearly home built. Looks like someone managed to find the correct size plastic pipes to cut pieces off. The smaller one is white, the other black - water pipe and drain pipe??

Initially the bike was very down on power. Ok for previous owner who must be half my weight. I put the 38mm back on but still bad. Traced it to a cat pipe with a loose catalyst! Sometimes the bike worked other times it didn't.

I want to try the 36mm because I'm looking for a bit more bottom to mid acceleration/torque/lugging. I already have a Gnarly pipe, PV box, flywheel weight. Tickover hasn't been a big issue on the 200 however it is better with the 36 but this could be a number of reasons not necessarily the size of carb. I am spurred on by the fact KTM went back to 36mm. I'm trying to get a 300 without the aggression so it's trialsy at low revs but can still fly at higher revs. I am looking for a very linear throttle, as standard you get sudden ramp then it becomes linear but still a little lacking in torque at bottom to mid. So willing to sacrifice the ultimate top end for smoother bottom.

[stainlesscycle]

Originally Posted by iancp5

My bike came (used) with a 36mm. It already had some plastic adaptors that are clearly home built. Looks like someone managed to find the correct size plastic pipes to cut pieces off. The smaller one is white, the other black - water pipe and drain pipe??

adapters? mine fit right in.. took the 38 out and put the 36 in... according to keihin the 36 and 38 are identical in size..

[iancp5]

Originally Posted by stainlesscycle

adapters? mine fit right in.. took the 38 out and put the 36 in... according to keihin the 36 and 38 are identical in size..

Mine's smaller engine side and airbox side. Must be different models of carb although it looks identical so it must be a PWK. The size of spacers required is consistent with the carb being 2mm smaller. I have never actually measured just believed the previous owner! Maybe I have an even smaller one. The slide in my 36mm is shorter than the 38mm slides as well. Otherwise they look identical in all respects. Looking at the carb on the bike it looks identical to the 38.