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Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke Jetting, Reeds, Air Filters, etc.


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  #11  
Old 05-23-2011, 09:19 AM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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You can buy the little washers that you slide under the clip to lift the needle just a bit more. Shim it up. I don't have any on hand though.

The difference between the N3C and N3E is half a clip also.

I should probably mark my grip and see if I can dial in if the sluggishness off the bottom is the pilot or the needle. Quite possibly the overlap of the both.

My problems on the hills weren't so much the bikes in ability to chug. Just that when the revs would get down to my fat pilot from N3EG it would be a bit rich. Showing more throttle snapped it onto the needle which ran like a raped ape. Essentially I was constantly transitioning in and out of wheel spin.

I think even a 1/4 of a clip position makes a substancial difference, as I can definately feel the change between #1 and #1.5 (N3Cx#2).

The richer oil ratio might be just enough to give the bottom a little bit more that I'm looking for.


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  #12  
Old 05-23-2011, 10:12 AM
Bailey28 Bailey28 is offline
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I just came back from my weekly ride at a rock garden. I am running:

BGL clip 5
38 pilot
180 main
a/s 1 out

Bike runs great at low revs, pretty strong, but not as strong as the stock needle right off idle. However the engine runs very smooth and clean. Gas mileage is fantastic, and there is no spooge at all, only a light grey ring.

I did take out the reed spacer and it seems to hit sooner. In the woods it is fine but on the road (I have a plate) The bike struggles to get onto the pipe in 5th and 6th gear. It may be just that its only a "300" against the wind at 55mph off the pipe. If I really twist the throttle it will get on the pipe and take off.

I would like to try the N3 taper to see what you guys are stoked about. Jakobi, so you went from the N3EG to the N3CH, in essence a half clip leaner and one step leaner on the straight diameter from G to H?

With the Sudco aftermarket needles, an "L" is equal to the factory "F" diameter. A factory "H" diameter is equal to an aftermarket "N" diameter.

The weather is hot here, 90*F plus, so I figured I could jet leaner and the motor would be happy. I may try the stocker N1EF clip 1 with the 38 pilot.

I am also 200 feet above sea level.
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  #13  
Old 05-23-2011, 10:39 AM
Bailey28 Bailey28 is offline
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If I can figure out how to put up the spreadsheet comparison here, it will freak you out how much the BGL clip 4 is equal to a N3CF here.
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  #14  
Old 05-23-2011, 10:48 AM
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Can you do a screen shot to an image file? You might have to host it somewhere to get a link to it.
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  #15  
Old 05-23-2011, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bailey28 View Post
If I can figure out how to put up the spreadsheet comparison here, it will freak you out how much the BGL clip 4 is equal to a N3CF here.
Its really hard to compare a triple taper needle to a straight taper.

I'm looking at the spreadsheet now and to try and match the 38, N3CH#2, 175 you would have to run something along the lines of Pilot 40 BGL#3.5 Main 200. Even with this you'd be 8% leaner at 1/8 throttle and about the same from 1/4th through to WOT.
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Old 05-23-2011, 11:33 AM
tnttimber tnttimber is offline
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Do me a favor and try a 48 pilot with that N3EJ in #2 with a 180 main. My bike would never run right with the lean pilot settings Ive read everyone on this forum running. I kept going up on the pilot and everything kept getting better, power, vibration, air screw operation.

That N3EJ is a yz250 needle and the yz settings use a 50 pilot in that bike.

Try it you might be surprised.

My bike is a 2010 250 sixdays and I ride around 3000-5000 feet.
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  #17  
Old 05-23-2011, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnttimber View Post
Do me a favor and try a 48 pilot with that N3EJ in #2 with a 180 main. My bike would never run right with the lean pilot settings Ive read everyone on this forum running. I kept going up on the pilot and everything kept getting better, power, vibration, air screw operation.

That N3EJ is a yz250 needle and the yz settings use a 50 pilot in that bike.

Try it you might be surprised.

My bike is a 2010 250 sixdays and I ride around 3000-5000 feet.
Strange you say that as my bike had much better power down low when running a 42 pilot compared to the 40, but that was at clip 3. It was blowing lots of smoke. I'm on clip 2 with the 40. It's also strange at your elevation you have gone up with the pilot. I don't think I've seen anyone that fat down low. Hey I'll try anything!
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Last edited by mrkartoom; 05-23-2011 at 01:20 PM.
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  #18  
Old 05-23-2011, 01:13 PM
tnttimber tnttimber is offline
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You might try a 45 pilot before you go to a 48 since your bike is a 300 and mine is a 250, ussualy you need a litle smaller jets on a 300.

The N3EJ needs a fatter pilot than the stock needle by a couple of sizes. I ran a 42 or 45 with the stock needle, so still much fatter than what everyone else seems to be running.

My exact settings on the 250:

Main-180
PJ-48
Needle-N3EJ #3
air screw- 2 turns

My bike rips.
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  #19  
Old 05-23-2011, 01:41 PM
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What slide are you guys (with the same size carbs) running? If the slide is rich you can screw with needles forever and never get it really good. It will also mess with your pilot ckt as you have to jack the idle screw in. Try a leaner slide and by all means get the squish dialed in when you can. 300s are more touchy than 250s and these details are even more important.

Also, you should jet with the map switch in the hi or sun mode (more advance).
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  #20  
Old 05-23-2011, 02:24 PM
Bailey28 Bailey28 is offline
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BGL clip 4.5 compared to a N3CF clip 1. Same as a N3CH except for the diameter. Just to show the fuel curve differences, which are very minor. +/- 5% max. The black reference line is the stock N1EF clip 1. It is hard to compare the triple tapers, but low to mid is where everyone complains about. Most all of the needles run pretty hard once the bike is well onto the pipe.
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