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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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Old 05-05-2014, 03:23 AM
bigtoe bigtoe is offline
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Default 2011 ec300 kick start issue

Hi, I have a 2011 ec300 which is really hard to start with the kick start when cold, I can kick hard and fast 20 times and it won't fire, but when I give the electric start a push she starts after about three or four attempts, then I turn it off and try the kick start again and nothing ! touch the electric start and away she goes ! wtf ! and when I'm trying to kick it, about every 5th kick it back fires in the exhaust, this does'nt happen with the electric leg, does anyone know what is going on .
ps. I'm only using choke, no throttle
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Old 05-05-2014, 03:40 AM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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What are you jetting specs, and what is your kicking technique?
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Old 05-05-2014, 03:59 AM
Elvis74 Elvis74 is offline
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never heard problems like this.
Jetting spec would be interesting and have you checked your reeds?
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:39 AM
bigtoe bigtoe is offline
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Hi, I'm not sure what the jets are at the moment , we were having problems with the bike running to rich so we contacted a gasgas dealer in sydney who has done a lot of research and testing on this model and they sent me some new jets and needle which we installed and the bike is running a lot better much crisper through the rev range, but we still had this problem with original jets.
as for my kicking style I just do it the same as I always done and never had this problem before with the 20 or so bikes I've owned except for one wr250 which did exactly the same thing, I'm kicking it over faster than the starter motor is so buggered if I know whats going on .
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:23 AM
Neil E. Neil E. is online now
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My guess is that your jetting is off. The estart does a better job because the engine turns more than with the kicker. This extra rotation will get you past a questionable carb setup.

I'd say that maybe your slide is high and the choke circuit is only just able to overcome this.
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Old 05-05-2014, 04:01 PM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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I'm guessing the blokes at SMW would have hooked you up with an N3EH needle, clip 2, 40-42 pilot and 178 main. One thing they may not have asked you is.. What sized carb came on your 2011? Have a look on the cap and you'll see a number within a circle (either 38/36). If its a 36 it means the specs they gave you will be off a bit.

Also, as Neil said, bring the slide down a bit to ensure good signal while starting. The slide raised too high is a sign of still being too rich. You should be able to peak down the air boot and see the slide. It only needs to be 1-2mm raised.

Kicking technique I have the best success with is the old school Yamaha YZ/WR procedure. I generally turn the engine over a few times slowly just to ensure all is well and distriibute a bit of oil in the crank cases. Then push the kicker through until it builds resistance. This is top dead center (TDC). Release the kicker back up, take up the slack and then give it a full clean firm kick.
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Old 05-19-2014, 11:39 AM
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iamovru iamovru is offline
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You were probably getting the piston up more to TDC by kicking it slower .


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