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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #11  
Old 02-28-2012, 12:04 AM
19brendan81 19brendan81 is offline
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Im in Canberra mate. F*ck I hope its not a CDI...getting hold of one to test is going to be extremely difficult or expensive. Ive never had a CDI fail on me, but I am lead to believe that they either work properly...or not at all. I could be wrong though.

Re what its doing...its very hard to describe the power issue through a forum post however I guess the best way to describe it is 'its not powerful'. If you rode it back to back with the KTM like I did you would agree theres something amiss.


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  #12  
Old 02-28-2012, 12:20 AM
lonetree lonetree is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19brendan81 View Post

Re what its doing...its very hard to describe the power issue through a forum post however I guess the best way to describe it is 'its not powerful'. If you rode it back to back with the KTM like I did you would agree theres something amiss.
hmm. mine will give any ktm300 a run for its money, so somthing wrong for sure...
trouble is it sounds like you've checked everything....
mine runs like shit when the muffler falls apart inside.....
i once had the ignition lead at coil end come loose......
the reeds in the older bikes can curl up a little, i flipped mine over....
sorry, out of ideas...
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  #13  
Old 02-28-2012, 03:37 AM
19brendan81 19brendan81 is offline
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OK, I think (hope) I have found the problem. I pulled the reed block out and the reeds arent sealing. As you can see from the photos attached, the bike has boysen dual stage reeds (are these stock?) and they arent sealing in numerous places. The outer reeds sit about .75mm proud on one side and .35mm on the other. The inner reeds sit about .15mm proud on one side and sit flat on the other. The reeds wont seal either...if I suck on the round part where the carby goes the reeds will pull in but wont seal...they leak a lot.

I also did a compression test with and without oil, 3 times for each. Without oil the reading was 120-125psi each time. With oil added it was about 130psi. I think that is low from what I have read, but the piston and ring are brand new (well, they have done 6 hours now) and the bore is in mint condition. I am hoping the non sealing reeds are causing that low reading.

I also pulled the muffler apart and checked the packing. Its a little messy as you can see, but not falling apart. Its not oily either. The inner core is also free from soot or blockages as you can see. The muffler is a pro circuit factory muffler...is this stock?

So, from the photos..what do you reckon? Do you think some new reeds will fix the problem?

Brendan
Attached Images
File Type: jpg end view.jpg (122.0 KB, 87 views)
File Type: jpg muffler.jpg (57.5 KB, 87 views)
File Type: jpg muffler1.jpg (113.4 KB, 83 views)
File Type: jpg muffler2.jpg (49.3 KB, 84 views)
File Type: jpg overview.jpg (50.0 KB, 115 views)
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  #14  
Old 02-28-2012, 03:39 AM
19brendan81 19brendan81 is offline
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More attachments....some super close ups of the reed block and reeds, and a view through where the carby goes to the crankcase...you can clearly see the air gap there where the outer reed isnt sealing.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Reed Block 1.jpg (103.8 KB, 66 views)
File Type: jpg Reed Block 2.jpg (85.1 KB, 66 views)
File Type: jpg view through to crankcase.jpg (47.2 KB, 74 views)
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  #15  
Old 02-28-2012, 04:49 AM
lonetree lonetree is offline
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your reeds look exactly like mine did, i flipped mine over and they then re sealed....
the muffler is not stock...
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  #16  
Old 02-28-2012, 06:42 AM
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stainlesscycle stainlesscycle is offline
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get a new set of reeds. or flip/mix and match those reeds till they seal, while you wait for new reeds...- but with that inner reed damage (last pic of first set of pics) you may not be able to get a seal..make sure the sealing surfaces of the cage doesn't have any dings in it - if it does, they won't seal even with new reeds.... usually when they don't seal the throttle response gets unpredictable, bike gets hard to start, and all kinds of strange power issues..
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  #17  
Old 02-28-2012, 04:09 PM
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ok I have your answer. . . maybe. Bikes in NZ & presumably Auss were often supplied with the nickel plated pipe but often sent along the matt black Euro street legal pipe (not to be confused with the 6 day pipe also Matt). This has a plate welded in it with a catalytic doffie about the size of a dust mask filter about 1/3 way up the fat part of the pipe. If your pipe is black then likely someone has munched the original & put this pipe on.

I tried mine as it measured up the same, but boy it was uninspiring, gutless compared to my 200 & it misfired. Cut out the plate & it rips as well as my mates with the std pipe. Hope this is it. Took some poking with a wire to find it, actually missed it first time we looked for it.
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  #18  
Old 02-28-2012, 04:50 PM
19brendan81 19brendan81 is offline
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Am going to order some new reeds...these ones are cactus. in the photo called 'overview' you can see a black mark I have highlighted...upon closer inspection this area of the reeds is all chipped away. They are too far gone to turn over in my opinion.

What about the compression test though? 120-130psi is a little low isnt it? I was expection something up around 160?

Re the exhaust - my bike has a nickel plate exhaust on it, which is badged gas gas. It sounds heavy when you tap it though...I suspect there is some sort of baffling in there, like what my old KDX used to have. The pipes straight, but pretty rusty. I think I could justify getting a new one in the pursuit of more power.
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  #19  
Old 02-28-2012, 05:41 PM
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nothing wrong with stock gg pipe (as long as it's not the catalytic one..) - believe the catalytic one has obvious welds where the cat is - dunno never seen one.

check your compression tester on something else. sometimes the calibration is way off. mine reads 120 or so for 180... so some simple math and i can get accurate readings.. should buy another one - but afraid it'll be all wonky like this one...
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  #20  
Old 02-29-2012, 03:08 PM
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ok well your pipe should be ok if it is the nickel one, worth a guess as they (cat ones) really knock the power out of the ring. Std or cat pipe don't have baffles or double skins - or mesh like I pulled out of old KDX. Keep the std pipe if it isn't squashed or twisted at the header bend which happens.

Cat pipes don't have obvious welds at all. Fooled our local pipe manufacturer & when I rode it I thought 'some-thing's wrong', - way wrong & my old squashed pipe back on & RIP the power comes back.
So I had another poke with a wire & found a clunk. So I got him to cut the pipe. He missed as there was no obvious spot, but cut it out & welded it back up as new (& then I got it chromed as easier to clean).
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