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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #71  
Old 08-26-2013, 06:40 PM
AZRickD AZRickD is offline
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Yep. The Gold springs even gave me room to adjust the free play so the lever behaves as I want. I can now set the idle a little higher without it dragging me. The motor is revving slightly more during initial acceleration and it takes on steeper climbs without it bogging, which would require more manual clutch fanning. Heck, on parts of two steel hills, I just pointed & squirted and held on for dear life. No hand cramp on my throttle side was nice.

More miles needed to be certain.

Next project: I need to get into the power valve to see if there is any slack to be taken up.


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  #72  
Old 08-26-2013, 08:37 PM
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Rick, Where did you end up with your final adjustment, i.e.: one turn + how many ticks?

I just upgraded to the adjustable slave and the adjuster bottoms at 1 turn + 4 clicks. At 1 turn + 0 the clutch behaves perfect. Just a little creep when I drop it into gear. It engages smoothly off idle. No slip at higher RPM.
I don't have a lever to check free-play gain as I have a LHRB.
Just looking for a little more data before I call Rekluse.

Which tech have you been working with? It would help if I could talk to the same guy.

Thanks!
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  #73  
Old 08-26-2013, 09:04 PM
AZRickD AZRickD is offline
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I think the tech name is written earlier in this thread. It was not the two well-known guys who are usually recommended.

As far asxadjusting, i twisted tick after tick to and fro until the clutch behaved the way I wanted it to. Checking "clutch lever free play gain" was dead last on my personal check list. I think I'm about one turn and 4 or 5 ticks. I could go back or forth one tick and not have an issue. Mine bottoms aboit the same place as yours did. Kinda surprised me.
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  #74  
Old 09-13-2013, 01:50 PM
AZRickD AZRickD is offline
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I decided to do some experimenting with oil during the last change.

Previously I had been using straight Walmart ATF, which I like.

With a tip-o-the-hat to the Rotella crowd, I did a 50/50 mix of Rotella Synth and Walmart ATF. I had used this ratio quite a bit up to about three years ago in my 2005 Gasser before going to my current routine of using 100% ATF.

The 50/50 mix of Rotella/ATF isn't as good for me as straight ATF. It seems a little grabby at idle. Other than that, it works, of course.

I'm still tweaking with the adjustable slave cylinder. I'm not quite sure where I want it. Mostly I don't want it dragging at idle, risking a stall. I'm willing to risk wear rates for that particular behavior.
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  #75  
Old 09-13-2013, 03:43 PM
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A couple of tips here from a long time Rekluse user (on both 2 and 4t's).
-a little drag in gear is good. It keeps the clutch from free wheeling. Guarantees you engine braking at every chop of the throttle.
-a little drag also gives a smoother and more predictable engagement. Too much slip just off idle allows it to rev then grab. Like popping a manual clutch. Very noticeable when it gets technical.
-you can avoid engine stalling due to the drag at idle by increasing the idle RPM. This has a desirable side effect of making the jetting at and just off idle less critical. Maybe one reason I haven't had any if the issues with my Smart Carb that others have.

Good luck with the experimentation!
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Last edited by andoman; 09-13-2013 at 05:52 PM.
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  #76  
Old 09-14-2013, 04:13 PM
AZRickD AZRickD is offline
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I'm cranking the adjustable slave cylinder all the way in. Backing off one or two ticks to make it behave the way I want it to. Clutch lever free play gain is fine.

Last edited by AZRickD; 09-14-2013 at 06:05 PM.
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  #77  
Old 09-14-2013, 05:34 PM
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That's exactly where I have my slave set.

I should note that I removed my clutch lever after initial verification of the free play gain. I have made several adjustments to the slave since, but I can tell by how much drag I have at idle that there is no way the gain would be too-little were I to have a clutch lever to check it with.
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