2013 250R overvolting

[Jakobi]

Would like some help from the tech savvy folk. Neil?

I've noticed for a while now that the voltage reading on the trail tech unit ramps right up and causes issues with the backing light dropping out as it reaches excessive volts.

Recently, I blew a lightbulb so it was time to really start digging.

Pulled out the multi meter and sure enough the volts are running from 12V upward depending on revs. Checked the ground/earth on the regulator by using its earth wire/tab where it contacts the frame to ground while checking the volts.

Ordered a replacement regulator, bolted it all up, and same goes again. Its still reading excessively.

Where do I look next?

[(F5)]

that's queer, they should be pretty simple, maybe the later ones are more clever & contain a feedback connection that is in the wrong position to be doing its thang. How many wires out of the '13 regulator?

[Jakobi]

2 wire. Same same as the older ones.

One feeds into the yellow power circuit (to be regulated), and the other simply dumps excess voltage to ground.

Did some more testing, and with the headlight running it 'appears' that the voltage is then regulated to 14V. I didn't hold it open to see if it would go higher. Switching the headlight off it pings up between 16-20V quite easily.

[benj565]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

2 wire. Same same as the older ones.

One feeds into the yellow power circuit (to be regulated), and the other simply dumps excess voltage to ground.

Did some more testing, and with the headlight running it 'appears' that the voltage is then regulated to 14V. I didn't hold it open to see if it would go higher. Switching the headlight off it pings up between 16-20V quite easily.

Mine does similar. If my take my tail light off, it'll do weird things, and if I disconnect my headlight, my tail light only half works (only one side of LEDs work), and climbs above 14v easily.. My solution was to leave my headlight on... Not ideal, but eh.

[Jakobi]

Interesting.

I noticed in some video of a mates that the tail light did the half only thing when I had the headlight turned off. Makes me think the whole circuit is relying on the headlight to control the voltage, and that my blown to pieces headlight may have been caused by something else (like blunt force impact).

[rubber Jonny]

My 2013 250 does this, It started just blowing the bulb now it actually explodes the bulb, shatters the glass like I hit it with a hammer!!!! No idea why, ive tried two new stock regulators and a trail tech adjustable regulator, that doesn't fix the problem. I have been through the wiring loom, stator etc etc. Drives me mad. I would really love to know how to fix this. Ive spent hours trying to get to the bottom of this and im stuck, had others look at it too, no idea whats wrong.

http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16717

[liamthom]

building off what Neil said, and with little to none experience with vehicle electronics could it be a bad ground? What if the powder coat is not conductive enough?

[rubber Jonny]

Mine is direct to frame no paint or powder in the way. Also had it earthed to metal bench no change. Its not bad earth.

My electrics are standard no mods. Stator has never been changed.

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by rubber Jonny

Mine is direct to frame no paint or powder in the way. Also had it earthed to metal bench no change. Its not bad earth.

My electrics are standard no mods. Stator has never been changed.

Same same and same.

I have a feeling my 2010 model always did the same thing too. Always had inconsistancy with the trail tech speedo resetting itself which continued even after replacing the unit many hours on. I suspected it was the speedo unit, but never checked the voltage.

[Neil E.]

I don't know what to offer at this point. Maybe the next step is to put in an aftermarket full wave rectifier and unground all of the lighting. The stator, CDI and coil remain grounded as normal. The old regulator is removed.

Input to the new reg/rect is yellow and ground. Output from the reg/rect is DC on red and blue wires. Red is used as positive and goes to the headlight switch. From there power goes to the headlight as normal.

The original ground wires at the headlight and tail light are disconnected and moved to the new blue wire. This means the lighting is not frame/chassis grounded. It only gets DC negative via the reg/rect blue wire (we are isolating/floating the reg/rect output by doing this).

The tail light can be connected to the new red all the time. The brake light switch will be connected to the new red wire and the switch output will be connected to the brake light filament.

No battery is needed. If a battery is added, then white and ground can power the reg/rect so the voltage is a bit higher and will charge the battery.
Just to recap, the stator has three connections: engine/frame ground plus yellow OR white wire. Yellow = most of the windings, white = all of the windings.