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Riding Techniques & Training Increase Riding Skill, Physical and Mental Training, Weight Loss.


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  #21  
Old 11-14-2007, 11:55 AM
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jran jran is offline
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Thumbs up Dirt Wise

I recently got the vid. "Dirt Wise" with Shane Watts. Great section on the proper body position when standing and how to use that standing position to benefit your ability in a bunch of technical stuff. I thought it was a great video. He also had some practice drills you could do to help you feel more comfortable with it and increase your balance.


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  #22  
Old 08-29-2008, 10:24 AM
Oldcow Oldcow is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skid jackson View Post
I posted this similar thread over on another site and one member mentioned to weight the inside peg. I have been weighting the outside peg. Got to try it out today and i must say it worked killer. Buzzed right through a lot of stuff i would normally sit down through!
Can you explain what this means "weight the inside peg"? I need all the advice I can get to learn standing !
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  #23  
Old 08-29-2008, 01:17 PM
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JoshP JoshP is offline
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When you are turning you want your weight on the peg on the inside of
the curve, so making a left turn you would want your weight on the left foot. It sounds weird but it works and really allows you to turn harder through the whole turn as to where I always felt like the bike wanted to straighten out when standing through a turn. The only way to become a good standing rider is
1. To stand all the time if it hurts then you are doing it right and if you have a hard time standing at all do some weight training or weighted walking / hiking to build you legs to allow the stand. (A starting goal is stand for 1 hour straight while riding.)
2. Practice standing at very slow speeds, make sudden stops and starts without touching or removing feet, general trials riding techniques help big!
3. You need to practice and perfect your riding stance. What I mean here is your arm position, legs, body weight over the bike.
*If you stand too tall or straight your weight is off and also you can not attack terrain well. Too close to the bike you can't accept terrain changes or
little throws in the trail, hence the huge problem with trying to ride fast when sitting.
Hope it helps.
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  #24  
Old 10-26-2008, 08:13 AM
1800 Spam 1800 Spam is offline
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hey guys kinda new to this forum, i stand alot more than most of my mates, it mainly comes from riding trials bikes as a kid. You defently have a lot more control standing in both slow technical stuff as you have much better balance and you are in a much more dominate position on the bike, putting you in control of the bike instead of the bike being in control of you; and in open stuff as it puts you in a position which is ready to react to up coming obsticals, or suprises that sneak up on you. If a log or bog hole catches you while humming along in 5th/6th gear, while sitting there is a good chance you will crash into it, but standing you are in control and ready to react, you can get your weight back, forward, or pre load the bike to get you over the top of the obstical.
I also find that if i do get myself into trouble, including running too hot into a corner, and washing the front wheel under brakes, it is alot easier to regain control while standing with you putting your foot down than in is while sitting, putting all your weight onto your foot and possible doing yourself damage to your knees etc

i find that i have alot more control when entering corners standing, as you can shift you weight alot better to steer the bike, and control any sideways behavour.



The key is to use your legs... GRIP THE BIKE WITH YOUR KNEES while accelerating and breaking, this will prevent your arms from becoming tired and will give you control! The bike can be steered with out using your arms, and you can practice it by riding down a hill, standing up, knees bent, with your weight central, now take your hands from the handle bars and while rolling use your legs to steer the bike. If you push down on the right peg and lift up from the left one the bike will steer right, and vice versa.
I find this good practice as it reminds you how much work the bike can do for you. Another handy thing to remember when ridding it tight trees is to stand above the bike, steer it with your legs, but keep your upper body upright and let the bike lean underneigh you. That way you can thread the bike and handle bars through really tight trees, without getting yourself tangled up in them, whilst also keeping up on the pegs.

As far as bike set up i like my bars higher than stock (i have spacers), i run my gear lever around 25mm above peg height as this makes shifting while standing comfortable without having to remove my foot from the pegs, i have my rear brake lever again slightly higher than the peg so its comfortable to use standing (i use my rear brakes alot) and my levers are set just down from horizontal, this ensures that my wrists are at the correct angles while operating my levers to maintain their strength (my wrists have had multiple injurys so i have to be careful.

Just remember to use your leg muscles to grip the bike, and also to steer the bike.

Hope this all helps

Sam

Ride smooth, ride fast


2007 EC 250 (for sale)
2009 EC 250 (comming as soon as the doc says i can ride!!!)
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  #25  
Old 10-26-2008, 08:32 AM
Cruiser Cruiser is offline
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Some very good tips here.. I find myself sitting more the older I get.. I would always stand, rarely sit down,, now when I start to get tired I stit then I get sloppy.. I find it helps me stand to set all the controls and bars to the standing position,, so it becomes uncofortable to sit.. reminds me to stand back up..
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  #26  
Old 10-26-2008, 07:25 PM
skid jackson skid jackson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1800 Spam View Post
hey guys kinda new to this forum, i stand alot more than most of my mates, it mainly comes from riding trials bikes as a kid.
I'll second the "lots of good tips" comment!!
I picked up a beta 200 a year or so back. I use it mostly in the spring before the regular trails open up and sometime late fall or winter when there is no snow. It more or less solved my standing problem. Now if I sit it is because I'm tired.

On a side note ... when I got the beta I asked other trialers about raising the bars like you would a dirt bike. They all said not too. You need them low for when the bike goes verticle. So I got used to riding with the low bars. On a lark I lowered my dirtbike bars back to stock because going through turns seated with the high bars was like riding with ape hangers. Because of the beta I had gotten used to standing with lower bars and it did not phase me when I went back to the low position on the dirtbike. Though sometimes I wonder if having them in the stock position might throw off my body position.
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  #27  
Old 10-27-2008, 06:43 AM
Hamish Hamish is offline
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hey guys, I have always been crap at standing , but one thing I have noticed going from the kato 300 to the gasser is that its much harder to grip the gasser with your knees.
The inside of my boots touch on the frame guard, where as on the kato I could grip the seat with my knees. Any mods anyone has done to cure this problem?
I was thinking of gluing some hard foam to the frame guards. being 6ft3" doesnt help either

Other thing is re weighting the inside peg. I always thought it was the outside peg you wanted to put weight onto when cornering to reduce the chance of the front washing out which I must say is a problem I rarely have these days with the kato in the garage
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  #28  
Old 10-27-2008, 10:32 PM
JEEPUSAURUS JEEPUSAURUS is offline
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Hey guys, I stand pretty much always, and grip bike with my knees, by doing this you have way better control of the bike without getting arm pump by holding on with your hands, as was said earlier on you can steer the bike with your knees.
As far as control, i feel that you need to keep the front wheel planted to keep the bike going were you want it to go, (to keep it planted for me, if i cant read the front # plate i'm not far enough forward) and proper sus. setup.
And as far as the pegs go I agree with Hamish on weight issue, Picture your bike from behind, now draw a line from the outside of the footpeg to where the tire comes into contact with the ground, then lean the bike over(as if cornering)The line on the upside is your weight pushing the tires into the ground, the line on the downside is your weight pushing the tires sideways, and this works for me, if i want to keep the bike on my line i weight the outside peg, if i want to get the bike to drift through the corner i weight the inside peg
Try going in a staight line and weighting each peg back and forth and see what the bike does, for me it moves the opposite way of the peg i'm weighting.(the rear of the bike)
I hope this helps, but this is what works for me
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Last edited by JEEPUSAURUS; 10-28-2008 at 06:42 PM. Reason: missed something
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  #29  
Old 10-30-2008, 09:34 PM
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widebear widebear is offline
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Hamish. tall guys like us need to get the centre line of the bars at least half a inch forward of the fork tube centre line, and a bar with less sweep in order to keep a proper balance that wont be un comfortable and force you back into a sitting mode,I had no problem standing up during all of Sundays ride after gettin a prickly pear cactus thorn jammed into my left ass cheek, did'nt want to ask my buddys for help. not that they'd helped anyhow.
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  #30  
Old 11-23-2009, 04:08 PM
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dank dank is offline
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Default Dirt Wise

When i first started riding i had a habit of sitting, for which i was remanded heavily by the father of the girl who got me into riding. he threw a move at me while i was at her house, and told me to learn. now i know leaning from videos sounds lame, but i had just purchased an 03 Ec 250 and i needed all the help i could get. it has helped immensely. the video is called Dirt Wise, and it features Shane Watts, or "Wattsy". while they do alot of talking about the man himself, he also does alot of teaching, on subjects such as riding in the rough, turning, and, most importantly to you, standing. For all the help it can give you it is definitely worth the buy.
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