Ignition retard

[iancp5]

EC300
I wanted to retard my ignition by removing the special washer, using a normal one to retard by about 1mm to fire TDC which is I think in the region of 10 degrees at TDC. There is a marking on the stator which seems to align with TDC. Unfortunately the most I could manage was about 5 degrees due to the fact that the other drillings don't allow the stator plate to move anymore. I couldn't be bothered to unhook the loom and cut the slots in the stator longer at the moment which might be a tricky job.

What I was wondering is why is the stator and case marked for TDC if you can't move the plate that far?

Also it looks like the 3 little bolts position the stator - is that correct?
Because if they don't then lengthening the slots is easy as I don't have to be accurate, I can just drill one end out a bit.

[GMP]

Don't move the timing more than 1mm each way. Big mistake if you try to cut the stator plate slots. Just elongate the insert washer 1mm in the direction you wan't to move. Since the stator plate is close to 360mm in circumference if I remember, 1mm = 1degree of advance or retard. I did this to advance the timing on my '03 250 when I ran the 2K-3. Forget the marks, I wouldn't trust them unless I degree'd it to verify. My bike has no marks.

Why retard though? Too much pull off idle?

[widebear]

I'm with Glen on this one. Go get a dial indicator and using the factory setting as a reference, go from there.

[iancp5]

Originally Posted by GMP

Don't move the timing more than 1mm each way. Big mistake if you try to cut the stator plate slots. Just elongate the insert washer 1mm in the direction you wan't to move. Since the stator plate is close to 360mm in circumference if I remember, 1mm = 1degree of advance or retard. I did this to advance the timing on my '03 250 when I ran the 2K-3. Forget the marks, I wouldn't trust them unless I degree'd it to verify. My bike has no marks.

Why retard though? Too much pull off idle?

I only want to move it 1mm retard - so it fires at TDC.

Just wanted to see if it softened it a bit low to mid. I really need a 250 thumper for most of the events I do but I'm kinda attached to the Gasser. After many little mods it fits me well ergonomically but I'm not good enough to handle the power after the first couple of hours.

You missed what I was trying to say - or more likely I said it badly. The insert washer isn't the problem. One of the other screws hits the end of the stator slot before it's retarded 1mm. So I can only retard by about 0.5mm. I can't re-drill and tap the crank case as there isn't room - no there really isn't because there's some other tapped drilling in the way. So where I would need to drill already has something in the way.

My guess is some idiot cocked up drilling the stator plate screw holes or it serves some purpose with the other ignition.

[GMP]

I don't remember than being the case on my '03 250. Pull the flywheel and post a pic. The 2K-2 has its own set of pre drilled and tapped M6 holes, fits without issue and does not use the M5 holes for the 2K-3 at all.

To soften it up more add a base gasket, that will lower compression and alter the port timing slightly. Is the reed spacer in the bike? If not add that as well. You can always convert it to a 250.

[goody]

Have you ever tried a trials throttle on it, it made a big difference to mine. It's funny when I had my 300 I wanted a 200, now I've got rid of it and have had the 200 for a year I want the 300 again. Had a go on a friends 250 (06) round a closed to club trial course loved it wouldn't mind a 250 again as well.

[Skidad]

Trials throttle or the G2 Throttle Cam system with the #4 cam profile might be a good idea. Thicker base gaskets and the reed spacer are as well.

Skidad in MA

[goody]

Think the 300's got the reed spacer on as standard, and think Ian already has the G2. I really want a throttle thats halfway between a trials and an enduro. How much twist does it take to get full throttle with a G2?

[widebear]

If your going to do it do it right! If you only use the locater washer to try and retard the timing the stator will not be concentric relative to the crank centre and the rotar defeating the whole purpose of the exercise, Keep in mind that exhaust temps will go up as you retard so that will open up a whole other set of variables.

[iancp5]

Originally Posted by widebear

If your going to do it do it right! If you only use the locater washer to try and retard the timing the stator will not be concentric relative to the crank centre and the rotar defeating the whole purpose of the exercise, Keep in mind that exhaust temps will go up as you retard so that will open up a whole other set of variables.

Don't understand:
"If you only use the locater washer to try and retard the timing the stator will not be concentric relative to the crank centre"

Why will it not be concentric? All I've done is rotate it slightly around the crank.