2008 EC300 standard jetting

[Jim Cook]

Originally Posted by HurricaneHarry

Thanks for all this advice. I don't want the power too aggressive - is there a needle which will better suit more bottom/mid linear power?

From riders who's jetting knowledge I respect, the NECW jet needle has
exactly what you are asking for.


.

[webmaster]

Stay away from the n1ef needle (stock) or anything similar. Don't even go there.

Start with yamaha yz250 or suzuki rm250 jetting as baseline - as jim cook noted above.

Be sure to go richer on pilot (42-48) and reset the idle (turn it down to get slide back down to where it should be...) 178-ish on main - depending on your fuel - varies a little from country to country... I would start with a 45 pilot and a 178 main.

Getting the proper needle and proper setting of idle and air screw is key to have good idle - good bottom and smooth transition through mid without having a "burble then hit".

Note that this carb can have air screw "out" at 2 to 2 1/2 turns.

Your air screw should have some effect when you turn it - if it doesn't the idle is turned up too high or needle too rich and it is "pulling over" - e.g. fuel from pilot circuit is being bypassed and most air fuel coming through slide and needle jet.

This is typically the condition that it comes in stock - too rich needle - drives person to lean out pilot to 38 and then crank in idle until it is coil bound... Doesn't start easily - doesn't idle, doesn't transition from bottom to mid well. Poor fuel mileage.... And the jetting is too dependent on atmospheric conditions - e.g. you might think you have it dialed in one day and then you go out another day and it isn't quite right again.... So if you see someone say the stock jetting with the n1ef needle works for them - it might work - but that person is threading the needle...

If a person has trouble getting things working with one of the "recommended needles", it is typically because they have not richened up their pilot or they haven't reset their idle and air screws properly. The needle jet can also become worn and "oval-ed" - making the bike difficult to "dial in".

jeff

[HurricaneHarry]

Cheers. I've found it has #7 slide, N1EF needle. I've read that this is the standard needle, and also that standard was N1ED?
I can't get the carb out...is there a trick to this?
If the needle jet is worn oval what are my options?

[HurricaneHarry]

Got it out with some effort...
175 mj 42 pilot - which was blocked. So there's one answer. Ordered the suggested needle NECW so I'll see. The needle jet looks ok I think - bit hard to tell.

[(F5)]

You ideally need a viewer, magnifier of some sort. Hold it up to the light and look through it. Any ovality is bad. Depends on how much it has been used. Vibration and the needle in there does most.

You can buy replacement tower that has jet in there, but not easy to find. Other options too but see where you are at. Blocked pilot is common for bikes that have sat for a while. Try turn tap off on your way back to truck to drain floatbowl so it isn't sitting in gas for xxx weeks if likely.

Cut the needle in 1/2 -so you aren't tempted to use it.

I've often undone the subframe mounts to lever out of the way for carb removal, replacement. Just easier than struggling with rubber and trying to get it back in especially on the shock side.

Blow through every hole, ideally with compressed air. Once main clean is done you can get to pilot and main by removing slide (clean tank above remember) and rotating away from you to get bowl off. Remove sprocket guard. Jiggle floatbowl to remove. Dont lose pin for float. Never over grass.
Ok, lay something on the grass.

[Gasser Nate]

The Suzuki NEDW needle will suit your needs. N3EG is a little more aggressive