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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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Old 12-16-2006, 11:20 AM
FFRDave FFRDave is offline
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Default Oil change...

I finaly changed the oil on my GG EC 250.

What a pain !!

I squashed the litle O-ring on the drain plug twice. Finaly, I got it together, by tightening the drain plug just a little, and then stopping. I am really afraid that it may just drop out of there some time.

I took forever and a day to get all of the oil into that little tiny fill hole that is recessec so far back that its hard to get to. I actualy had to fill a little, go away for an hour to let the oil settle inside the motor. this step was repeated several times (several hours) until I could see the oil in the sight glass when I tilted the bike. Then I knew I was close, so I topped it off and went to bed. Its been sitting all night now, so I may just go out and find that I over-filled it.

One thing that I liked about my Hondas was that the full marker was a hole with a bolt in it. If I did over-fill, I could just open that hole and let it dribble until the level was right.

I STILL LOVE MY GAS GAS !!!


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Old 12-16-2006, 12:39 PM
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It should not be that difficult. I've done probably close to a hunderd oil changes on different GGs over the past 7 years. You can make a simple funnel from an old gear oil bottle or equiv. with a spout top, just cut the spout as short as you can to fit the ID of the fill hole, and cut the bottom out. Alternately, a small funnel with a plastic tubing extension as large an OD as possible. Fill with 1L oil, forget the sight glass. It should take oil as fast as the funnel will flow it, especially with Rotella 5W-40W as it flows very well. For the drain, buy the o-rings in bulk and use a new one each time. Just snug the plug with a T handle, it does not have to be any tighter. If the fill plug weeps, replace the copper crush washer with an o-ring as well, I have found it seals better. If you still have a problem filling, check your trans/PV vent line for obstruction.
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Old 12-16-2006, 08:10 PM
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I use the second option mentioned by Glenn. I have a funnel with a long tube connected to it. I forget the exact diameter... something like 3/8" OD from the hardware store. The funnel hangs from my handlebar and I fill it with 900 mL of RotellaT 5w-40 oil. The funnel gravity-feeds the tranny through the long tube. After several minutes, the oil is in the tranny and ready to go. Always measure the oil quantity! The site glass is for reference only to check on oil during riding, etc..

Regarding the drain plug, do what Glenn says and just snug it up. Don't not over-tighten! You will either strip the aluminum threads, shear the bolt head, or end up tearing the oring into. From my early over-tightening days, I had the aluminum bolt head begin to shear off. Luckily, I caught it in time before it broke off completely.
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Old 12-17-2006, 07:17 AM
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I have a cheap $1.50 funnel that is about 12" long and slender. I put a chamfer on the end so it fit in the fill hole. I then measure out the appropriate amount of oil in a measuring cup (500ml and then 400ml). The oil job is done in a few short minutes.

I keep a bunch of o-rings in my tool box because I have crushed a few too. The point is to not over-tighten the drain plug.
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Old 12-18-2006, 03:28 PM
killergasser killergasser is offline
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I've started using a BillyWho funnel and love it. Just dump a liter in and fill at will. I can change the oil in about 5 minutes from start to finish. Of course now with the Hyde plate it's a little messier. I'm thinking of jamming the space with foam so it only has one place to go, straight out. It was $20, but I just drank three less whiskeys last night so I'm back to even.
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Old 12-18-2006, 09:03 PM
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You can use a copper washer on the drain bolt as well if you wish.
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Old 12-19-2006, 06:52 AM
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The fill hole plug always weeped on my '03. The sealing surface looked like it had some slight tool chatter marks. An o-ring totally cured the problem with much less torque required, just snug.
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Old 12-20-2006, 12:51 PM
FFRDave FFRDave is offline
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I admit it... I botched the job (such a simple task) so badly that I just drained the oil and started over, attempting to use your above mentioned ideas. I still had trouble.


Another problem I had was that I had a heck of a time getting the oil INTO the engine. I poured a lot down the side all around the Clutch Master Cylinder. The oil is just too thick to run down the tube from a suspended bottle. It wouldnt flow at all !! Finaly, I had to get a squeez bottle and just squirt it in.

I used to have a syringe with a 3" section of tygon tubing for mixing oil with gas, but couldnt find it anywhere. It would be great to have one that is a 1 liter capacity. then I could just inject the oil in.

I still love my Gas gas.
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Old 12-20-2006, 01:54 PM
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What are you using for oil? It should not be too think.
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Old 12-22-2006, 12:49 PM
FFRDave FFRDave is offline
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I have been running regular motor oil. Castrol GTX 10W-40, to be exact.

The bike runs and shifts just fine. It is winter time and my shop is kinda cold, but not uncomfortably so. I have never had any trouble with using this oil before, but the oil fill hole on my Hondas has always been much larger diameter than on the Gas gas.
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