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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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Old 11-12-2010, 07:41 PM
skid jackson skid jackson is offline
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Default Inner and outer counter shaft seal

I have to replace these. this is the outer seal and the two o rings and bushing on the inner part. I have replaced the outer seal once and it was a pain in the arse to get it out. I can only wonder what the inner orings and bushing are like. Anyone done this?? any tips or tricks to know about. Should get into it next week sometime.


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Old 11-12-2010, 08:07 PM
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Outer seal replacement-take a powered screwdriver and a 3" long sheet metal screw and screw it inot the seal. Take a pair of pliers and yank on the sheetmetal screw. The seal should pop out.

Bushing seal rides on- Have new bushing on hand. Drill some holes into the old bushing and then pry the bushing out with a screw driver, using said holes as a prying point.
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Old 11-13-2010, 09:52 PM
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I got the bushing out first with a big pair of channel locks and applying a twisting motion. Then removed the lip seal with a wire hook. I tried the sheet metal screw but it kept stripping out.

Be carefull when you drive the new lip seal in - there is no stop to prevent it from going in too far.
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Old 11-14-2010, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skid jackson View Post
I have to replace these. this is the outer seal and the two o rings and bushing on the inner part. I have replaced the outer seal once and it was a pain in the arse to get it out. I can only wonder what the inner orings and bushing are like. Anyone done this?? any tips or tricks to know about. Should get into it next week sometime.
try a seal puller from the local auto parts store, I modified the end a little to make it easier to dig the seal out.
A dental pick should make it easier to pull out the o-rings.
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Old 11-14-2010, 08:32 PM
skid jackson skid jackson is offline
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ok so i'm going to dig into this sometime this week. thanks for the ideas btw. I'm a little confused by the parts diagram

http://gofasters.com/index.php?main_...ort=20a&page=2

Part 23 which they call a seal is what I believe is the bushing then it has the two o rings and then a seal and then the bearing. it does not show the seal that goes on the outside behind the sprocket. Is that seal #28 just misplaced on said diagram?? or is there another seal that goes in front of the bushing??
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Old 11-14-2010, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skid jackson View Post
ok so i'm going to dig into this sometime this week. thanks for the ideas btw. I'm a little confused by the parts diagram

http://gofasters.com/index.php?main_...ort=20a&page=2

Part 23 which they call a seal is what I believe is the bushing then it has the two o rings and then a seal and then the bearing. it does not show the seal that goes on the outside behind the sprocket. Is that seal #28 just misplaced on said diagram?? or is there another seal that goes in front of the bushing??
The seal is #28, FYI on the Honda's #24 (the one that sits in the collar) is a "D" shaped o-ring....on the GG they might both be regular o-rings.
I always check stock seal and bearing depth before I remove them...unless it's just a flush seating.
So, #28 main countershaft seal, #24 right o-ring slides over the shaft, left 0-ring inside the collar, collar over the main shaft and into the seal, sprocket on...use a fair amount of grease.
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Old 11-17-2010, 10:36 PM
skid jackson skid jackson is offline
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well that was too easy ...
The bushing came out simply by grabbing it with my fingers and pulling it out.this left plenty of room to get into the seal with a seal puller I got from sears. The last o ring was fished out with a dentist tool.

The screw into the seal method did not work

I gotta thing that the fact that the bushing came out so easy was probably evidence that replacement was a good idea .. although the new one slide back on pretty easy too. Guess I'll have to wait and see if I get any oilcomeing out between the sprocket and the shaft.
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:44 AM
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They can be bears if corrosion sets in between the bushing and shaft, anti-seize is good here. Maybe a leaky oring helped you! This is the same design as a KTM and on both bikes, leaks are often from the orings, especially if you have a sprocket that does not fit tight enough to compress it through the collar slightly.
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:23 PM
case-racing case-racing is offline
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Default counter balance shaft

NEVER USE ANTI SEIZE ON ALUMINIUM..... use copper coat if not grease. anti seize will cause corrosion on aluminium and binding.
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:30 PM
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True. They do make anti-seize that is compatible with aluminum.

The seal bushing is made of steel. If you use anti-seize that has aluminum in the mixture, the bushing will seize due to the different metals.

Always read the labels!
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