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Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke Jetting, Reeds, Air Filters, etc.


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  #11  
Old 02-18-2008, 06:16 AM
Leon_gasgas Leon_gasgas is offline
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Hi!

I think the ef or eg at #2 is very lean for the temps you describe (I think this is causing the hesitation). Try at #3. Or, try the CCK straight and report the result. For close to 0 C the 07/08 needs the 180 jet.

Leon


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  #12  
Old 02-18-2008, 02:06 PM
GG27 GG27 is offline
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Default Cold Weather Jetting

I have tried placing the needle at #3 but the hesitation is greater, that is why I use #2. Maybe I'll put the N1EF needle @#2 and increase the main to 180 if the weather continues this way.

I read in another forum that you were also using #2 N1EF in warmer weather in Finland. Of course the weather in Greece usually is between +7 and 15 C in the winter which is your spring temperatures in Finland, so maybe I'll wait a week or so for the temperature to rise and then try the CCK #3 42pj and 178 main. What do you think?

BTW I have been using DENICOL S2 at 1:50 with super unleaded 98 in all my bikes with no spooge and very low deposits in the piston-powervalves.
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  #13  
Old 02-19-2008, 12:59 AM
Leon_gasgas Leon_gasgas is offline
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This setting at #2 was wrong and I was guided there by a restriction in the air filter that the dealer forgot to remove when I bought the bike, even though he adjusted the carb. I placed the needle clip at #3 shortly afterwards I found out that the bike hesitated under load in the mx track. Then it worked great even at temps like 30 C in summer (with 178 main) which correspond to about 35 or more in Greece (I am Greek... Leonidas is my full first name). Try to adjust your carb after you have the needle at #3. Or, use the CCK at the setting it is suggested in the forum. Probably you have to use a smaller pilot and, max, a 178 main especially if you practice higher on the mountains.
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  #14  
Old 02-19-2008, 01:03 AM
Leon_gasgas Leon_gasgas is offline
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Also I suggest you contact Fotis Skaris from the 0300 magazine. He raced an EC250 '07 for a year and he is still in the team of the GasGas distributor riding a Husaberg this year. I am sure he will help you out.

Leon
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  #15  
Old 02-19-2008, 01:37 AM
GG27 GG27 is offline
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Hi Leon

I am glad you are Greek! What are you doing in Finland?

I will put needle G at#3 as you suggest. It is funny but I have talked to Fotis and he used the following settings:

mj 175 (172 for summer)
N1eg needle (He did not remember needle position)
pj 42

Also the Greek distributor suggests the same but I am not sure of the needle position. The standard factory settings when I bought the bike were:

mj 180
NIEF #3
pj 40

The bike had a big hesitation just before the PV was opening so I lowered the needle one click and it ran better but not perfect.

I will play around with the settings as you suggest and come back to you.

Thanks
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  #16  
Old 02-20-2008, 05:08 AM
Leon_gasgas Leon_gasgas is offline
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Hi!

I think you got the hesitation because of the 180 jet not because of the needle. I remember when I was trying to figure out the jetting of my previous 07, before I found the restriction, I put an 185 jet and it wouldn't rev out... it would sputter.

If you check your posts the hesitation now moved to low/mid revs after you went too lean on the needle and still you have the 178 main. As Fotis suggested go to an 175 after you put the needle at #3. If the temps continue to be low, stay with the 42 pilot and play with the air screw. It is the hardest to change so leave it last until you fix the other parts.

(I am married and been working here for some years... I don't know when I come back to Greece)

Leon
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  #17  
Old 02-21-2008, 12:18 AM
GG27 GG27 is offline
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O.K.

I'll raise the needle and lower the main to 175 this weekend since the weather is getting warmer. First I'll try out the CCK needle just to see how it goes.

Do you guys have a quick and easy way of changing main jets without having to take the carb out? The needle is so easy, just rotate the carb, unscrew the top and your done in 10 minutes, but when I tried to rotate carb the other way to get at the bottom 17mm bolt it hits the gas tank. So I had to take the hole carb out. Do you take the fuel tank off first?.

Thanks again
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  #18  
Old 02-21-2008, 12:25 AM
Leon_gasgas Leon_gasgas is offline
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Just remove the cap with the slide, as you did to check the needle, and rotate. 4 minutes job .
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  #19  
Old 02-21-2008, 12:26 PM
GG27 GG27 is offline
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Thanks for replying so quickly but I feel a bit stupid to ask you again:

When I take the cap-needle slide out and rotate the carb towards the fuel tank (clockwise) to get at the bottom it hits the fuel tank. That is how I have done it on all my other bikes(KTM and YZ).
Do you rotate it counter-clockwise so you have the carb nearly upsidedown or can I get at the jets from the kickstarter side. I'm sure there must be a simple way.....
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  #20  
Old 02-21-2008, 06:30 PM
ducncover ducncover is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twibs View Post
ok sorted the float height problem out when i had it to bits to clean carb out had forgotten to clip the float valve spring over float tab !!!!
What float valve spring are you speaking of. I have been having mixture issues and have had my carb apart several times. I did not notice a spring.
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