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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #31  
Old 05-19-2011, 02:24 PM
forgiven forgiven is offline
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Do I need to take the waterpump impeller off to get the case cover off...didn't want to force anything.

Is it a lefty loosey or righty loosey on the impeller shaft?


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  #32  
Old 05-19-2011, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forgiven View Post
Do I need to take the waterpump impeller off to get the case cover off...didn't want to force anything.

Is it a lefty loosey or righty loosey on the impeller shaft?
lefty loosey.
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  #33  
Old 05-19-2011, 04:42 PM
stemplin stemplin is offline
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You do not have to remove the water pump impeller to take the case cover off. The opposite end of impeller shaft sits in a bearing race and can sometimes be tricky to remove but it should pull straight out without having to remove the impeller itself.
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  #34  
Old 05-19-2011, 07:03 PM
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yeah...it was just not wanting to come and didn't want to get too physical with it.
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  #35  
Old 05-22-2011, 07:22 PM
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Is it possible for someone to take a few more pictures and post next time they dive in. I'm a bit of a girl when it comes to tackling things head on for the first time.

I'll hit up the dealer for a few power valve gaskets and a clutch side one too.

I test rode a friends 2011 EC300E and immediately I realised just how rattly my bike is both at idle and when giving light revs at idle. Mine sounds like its going to explode compared to his. Then riding his, it felt much stronger right off idle. Mine definately had more hit in the mid and a ripper top end. Could be jetting variances but the rattle is definately not jetting related and has been there since day 1. I thought it was normal.
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  #36  
Old 05-22-2011, 07:43 PM
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One more thing. When you say take the right side cover off and run the bike to ensure the governer is working as its meant to. Is this with the pipe on or off?

Is there any harm in firing the bike with the pipe off for diagnostic purposes?
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  #37  
Old 05-22-2011, 08:00 PM
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Every time iv heard that pv check mentioned, its with the rhs cover off and pipe on, but it only takes a few seconds to put the pipe on, it just sits there, dont bolt it on.
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  #38  
Old 05-22-2011, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by noobi View Post
Every time iv heard that pv check mentioned, its with the rhs cover off and pipe on, but it only takes a few seconds to put the pipe on, it just sits there, dont bolt it on.
Thank noobie. Will have a look see. I have pulled my P3 Guard off so will give the pipe a good clean while its off. Going to throw some fresh o rings on it too. Big thanks!

Had a look.. Powervalve is against the stop. Seems to be quite a bit of play where the arm attaches to the actuator plate. There is a floating washer in there that vibes alot. Still couldn't pin point the sound my engine makes just off idle. If you give it a quick rev theres quite a bit of vibration felt and heard. Pulling the choke and making it super rich doesn't change it so I don't suspect jetting. Are some of these engines just noisier than others? The one I compared to only had 600km on it, but I recall mine always being a bit loud and vibey

Last edited by Jakobi; 05-22-2011 at 09:58 PM.
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  #39  
Old 05-23-2011, 01:50 AM
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Here are some photos of the adjustment being done to my bike. I can't provide a detailed description of the procedure since I don't know the names for most of the parts, but I wanted to get some photos posted so people could see the powervalve mechanism. You'll need to remove the pipe, kickstarter, drain the coolant from the water pump drain plug, remove the radiator hose (use pliers to squeeze the spring clamp) and lay the bike on its side. Remove the side case by loosening the appropriate bolts. You will need to remove some of the clutch cover and water pump bolts because they hold the side case on! These bolts will be noticeably longer than the others and they must be removed. Tap the case lightly with a rubber mallet to loosen the gasket. Lift the case off, it may take extra nudging near the water pump area because of the drive mechanism. Now look at the photos. The bolt marked "adjust here" is the screw that you need to loosen. The next part is tricky, you need to follow Glenn's advice and figure out which way to rotate the adjuster (and how much) to get rid if the slop. You'll need to use both hands to hold everything in place while you re-tighten the Allen bolt as everything can flop around when this bolt is loose. I did not change the shims on my bike. Now you can reassemble the bike (new side case gasket goes on now if needed) and replace the coolant.

Steve
Attached Images
File Type: jpg PV_1.jpg (104.3 KB, 1352 views)
File Type: jpg PV_2.jpg (75.3 KB, 1328 views)
File Type: jpg PV_3.jpg (78.1 KB, 1357 views)
File Type: jpg PV_4.jpg (61.8 KB, 1321 views)
File Type: jpg PV_5.jpg (66.7 KB, 1600 views)
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  #40  
Old 05-23-2011, 04:18 AM
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Thanks heaps for those pictures!

I inspected my power valve through the right hand side cover and its operating well. There is still a bit of play in the valve itself while the actuator is up against the stop but I believe this is normal.

I made a jetting change afterwards to try and identify the source of my rattle and vibration and low and behold, dropping the needle one more clip position cleaned it up alot, but I'll put that in the 2 stroke carb section.
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