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Enduro Chassis & Body Enduro Frame, Plastic, Brakes, Bars, Controls, wheels, tires, sprockets & gearing. |
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#1
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hello from new member and some plastics help please.
Hi there,
My name is Andy and im about to have a go at a bit of 'green laning' and enduro on my new to me, gas gas 300ec I am hoping this is not going to be a bucket to throw money at, but im excited to ride it any way. Im totally new to off-road riding but i have ridden sports bikes for years and currently ride a suzuki gsxr 1000. Any how, the bike was cheap but is supposed to have had a recent engine rebuild and has been used competing in enduro's. As such it is a little messed up and im hoping to give it a new lease of life cosmetically. It is supposed to be a 2002 model, but from pictures, it looks more like a 2001. Can anybody confirm which plastics i can buy for it with a more modern look please? cheers Andy |
#2
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Personally, I would spent your $$$ on mods before plastic.
If you search on the word plastic you will find tons of info on where to get plastic.
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Howie 2008 KTM 530 Former Fantasies: 2007 KTM 525 2004 Honda CR250R 2011 Gas-Gas EC 300 2009 KTM 300 XC-W 2004 KDX 200 2000 KDX 220 2003 Gas-Gas EC 250 2004 Honda CRF 250X 2005 Honda CRF 250X What can I say, I'm schizophrenic and ambidextrous! |
#3
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ok, what should i be looking at for mods? or is that just a case of ride the bike and find out what needs sorting out
Last edited by andy_scouser; 06-17-2009 at 07:23 PM. |
#4
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Sure ride it straight away, sooner you do the sooner you start learning.
You're going to be on a big learning curve for a year. First you have the wrong bike for starting in the UK but you may be ok in the dry of summer. Don't give up. New plastics look good for a couple of rides. If you are new to dirt bikes you will be spending a fair bit of time in bushes or on your arse - actually if it stays dry you may get to spend more time on the bike than your arse! After a year you learn how to fall and as long as you don't hit anything it becomes painless. Don't worry going down on dirt is usually a low sider and pretty painless. Oh I recommend knee pads of some sort though. Don't worry if the plastics are just scratched. I would only bother with new ones when they really fell apart or if I was selling. First thing to do is to get the bike to fit you if you're not around average size and weight. That's the ergonomics - bar, pegs, seat heights, control positions. If short you can do things to lower a little. Then get the suspension set right. If not average get the correct rate springs fitted, set the sag (very important) and start reading about damping on dirt to help you setup the clickers. Next check the jetting is correct. Dirt bikes often have the jetting messed about with. I'd recommend a CCK needle - look up Pobit's recommendations for the 300 using CCK for smooth power. You will find the 300 a very fast aggressive bike if you're new to dirt. Alternately go with a standard UK setup such as 38P, 178M, N1EF (on 3 or 2). Some US setups do not work here. I think they ride much more open terrain than us. Tyres, tyres, tyres! Almost anything will work ok on hard pack. When it's sloppy they get really important. I would advise Michelin comp 3 rears and comp 4 front. They are FIM legal for enduros and E marked for the road. After that the Metzeler FIM enduros are good too. Be warned the grip on tarmac is crap. I often forget when I've been riding road bikes for a while and end up in a speedway power slide on the first bend on a dirt bike! Basically you need to make that bike as easy to ride as possible. Getting on a 300 2 stroke as a first enduro bike in the UK is a bit like passing your test on a 125 and buying a Desmosedicci as your first bike and going on a trackday! You will be lucky to use more than 1/8 throttle in the woods. Makes overtaking on the fireroads easy though. |
#5
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Firstly, thank you very much, loads of help there... although im now a little scared
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Thanks again, let the pain/fun begin |
#6
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http://www.keihin-us.com/am/products/pwk.php
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2003 EC250 w/ Ohlins pkg Sometimes you eat the bear, sometimes the bear eats you. |
#7
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Thanks, i have just stripped the back end down to sub frame, basically all the plastics bar the forks. its got a Keihin 26SA PAU and it does have PWK embossed there too. I also notice that it doesnt really have an air box, its just an open to the top, sides and back (although back covered by the rear fender). Isnt that bad news as far as water ingress? Im not entirely sure whether it has been 'cut' like that as its a good job, but not perfect. Im likely to be in the water, it is england remember!, so can i not protect that more other than just the plastics/seat?
Boots, yes, i will try and invest in the safety side first and foremost, i spend for my sports bikes with top leathers etc, so i will for this. I also have an anodised blue alloy unit for my bars, probably 2 inches higher than the yokes so maybe thats a riser kit I want to at least check out the bike mechanically before i head out 200 miles from home only to find something is wrong, so ill get an oil change, air filter and plug for it..... although it fires up first kick. Ive noticed a small nick in the alloy cover on the kick start side, its weeping a little oil. But in the box of bits i got, there is a black, rather than alloy cover which looks new, probably from a newer bike. So, ill see about getting a gasket and sorting that out too. thanks for all your help lads, really appreciating this |
#8
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quick picture
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#9
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The seat, side covers, and fender make up the majority of the airbox on our bikes. Looks to me like everything is intact although it's hard to tell 100% from your pics. You can seal the airbox using various methods, although you really only want to seal the bottom/sides so there is still plenty of airflow.
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2003 EC250 w/ Ohlins pkg Sometimes you eat the bear, sometimes the bear eats you. |
#10
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I have been looking around for jets/needles but cant find any where in the uk, can you suggest any where at all please? |
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