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Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke Jetting, Reeds, Air Filters, etc.


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  #1  
Old 07-18-2014, 02:27 AM
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FDB FDB is offline
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Unhappy Strange issue. Need advice.

Hi guys.
I have a strange question.
I bought a 2002 300 Gasser and started refurbishing it.
The previous owner managed to fit a YZ250 exhaust header and silencer on it, but everything else motor wise is stock.

Checked reeds, did the jets to spec, the works.
Started the bike, and rode it, and it has a terrible crackling at 1/4 to half throttle. No matter what I do, it stays there. Raised the needle clip, messed with the airscrew, checked the choke, set the float level to spec, everything.
Everything pointed to a rich pilot circuit.

So I thought that by dumb luck, let me put a slide needle I have lying around from a 2006 KDX200 and the bike is absolutely perfect.
The needle that came with the bike is a N1ED. Not sure what the code is for the KDX needle but it definitely less taper (thicker).
So I have a rich condition that the thicker needle is sorting out for me.
Question is.. Why?
I checked the choke. Everything is fine there.

A few things bother me on the bike that I will get to soonest:
1. It does not have the OEM rubber that connects the carb to the reedvalves. It is just a random rubber pipe. And the carb is about 2mm from the reed fitting and not perfectly aligned to the reed fitting pipe.
2. It has a YZ250 pipe on.
3. The powervalves was set to fully open, and fully closed manually to check that that was not maybe the cause. Same rich condition on both those settings.
4. I?m not sure where the spark timing should be on the 2002 300 Gasser. But surely that could not have the same symptoms as a rich condition, and a fatter needle won?t make that better.
5. The bike is probably due for a new set of rings. But it has a ton of compression still and goes like crazy with the KDX needle.

I?m stumped.
I can leave the KDX needle in there and all will be ok, but surely something is not right and the KDX needle is a plaster on a cut. I want to fix the cut.

Any ideas?


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  #2  
Old 07-18-2014, 11:21 AM
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What do you mean when you say the power valve is "set to fully open"? Is it open all the time?
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  #3  
Old 07-18-2014, 11:46 AM
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Fred1956 Fred1956 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FDB View Post
Hi guys.
I have a strange question.
I bought a 2002 300 Gasser and started refurbishing it.
The previous owner managed to fit a YZ250 exhaust header and silencer on it, but everything else motor wise is stock.

Checked reeds, did the jets to spec, the works.
Started the bike, and rode it, and it has a terrible crackling at 1/4 to half throttle. No matter what I do, it stays there. Raised the needle clip, messed with the airscrew, checked the choke, set the float level to spec, everything.
Everything pointed to a rich pilot circuit.

So I thought that by dumb luck, let me put a slide needle I have lying around from a 2006 KDX200 and the bike is absolutely perfect.
The needle that came with the bike is a N1ED. Not sure what the code is for the KDX needle but it definitely less taper (thicker).
So I have a rich condition that the thicker needle is sorting out for me.
Question is.. Why?
I checked the choke. Everything is fine there.

A few things bother me on the bike that I will get to soonest:
1. It does not have the OEM rubber that connects the carb to the reedvalves. It is just a random rubber pipe. And the carb is about 2mm from the reed fitting and not perfectly aligned to the reed fitting pipe.
2. It has a YZ250 pipe on.
3. The powervalves was set to fully open, and fully closed manually to check that that was not maybe the cause. Same rich condition on both those settings.
4. I?m not sure where the spark timing should be on the 2002 300 Gasser. But surely that could not have the same symptoms as a rich condition, and a fatter needle won?t make that better.
5. The bike is probably due for a new set of rings. But it has a ton of compression still and goes like crazy with the KDX needle.

I?m stumped.
I can leave the KDX needle in there and all will be ok, but surely something is not right and the KDX needle is a plaster on a cut. I want to fix the cut.

Any ideas?
What main jet is in there? I believe the N1ED is stock...If it works ggod then I'd leave the KDX needle in there & enjoy it....I run a Suzuki needle myself, some guys run Yamaha needles as well. + what does "plaster on a cut" mean (I'm not from around here )
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  #4  
Old 07-18-2014, 07:55 PM
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If it runs good with the kdx needle I would stick with that. I havn't ever been able to make the n1ed needle work.
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  #5  
Old 07-20-2014, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lgr View Post
What do you mean when you say the power valve is "set to fully open"? Is it open all the time?
It was yes.
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  #6  
Old 07-20-2014, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Fred1956 View Post
What main jet is in there? I believe the N1ED is stock...If it works ggod then I'd leave the KDX needle in there & enjoy it....I run a Suzuki needle myself, some guys run Yamaha needles as well. + what does "plaster on a cut" mean (I'm not from around here )
Lol.
I mean it is a fix to a symptom. Not a solution to the underlying problem.
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  #7  
Old 07-20-2014, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rosco View Post
If it runs good with the kdx needle I would stick with that. I havn't ever been able to make the n1ed needle work.
Cool.
I pulled the sleeve (barrel) to have a look at the condition of the piston, sleeve and rings.
The previous owner had no bottom gasket in there. None.
I put one in and made sure everyghing was fine. I did not change anything on the carb at all.

Took the bike for a quick spin today.
Pulls smooth but now has a slight bog from idle. I can feel it is now lean on the pilot circuit and needle.
This is good news.

Will see if it now pulls right with the oem needle (which is thinner than the kdx one) later this week.

Makes me wonder...
Why would no bottom gasket on a bike require a lean pilot/needle??
Squish?
Valve timing?
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