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  #21  
Old 01-09-2015, 06:51 AM
motopsycho87 motopsycho87 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caravan Monster View Post
Do you need the clutch for double blip ? Throttle, approach speed and weight transfer should be enough to get over most logs. Difficult bit is timing the second blip right. One finger on the clutch when I expect to use it.
I personally think it depends on approach speed. If I am coming at it slowly then I will have to use the clutch to get the engine revs where I want them, but if approaching at speed not so much.


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  #22  
Old 03-04-2015, 06:31 PM
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Always ride with index extended. Certian times 2 for clutch control.
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  #23  
Old 03-04-2015, 06:43 PM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Its all personal preference. As long as you're able to modulate the clutch and brake levers with feel and precision that works for you that is the main thing.

To be honest, I don't know how many fingers I use.. I've been riding long enough that both are subconsious reations through muscle memory. I'd bet its 2 fingers though, particularly as fatigue sets in.

In regards to lever angle, I think I set mine down a bit. Definitely not parallel to the ground. A lot of this depends on body position and the rest of the ergos too. I've set mine up to be inline with my arms. But as stated earlier, its much easier to have the wrist flex back then forward. Definitely something to consider if you're pumping up.

I also run some electrical tape around the bar beneath the master cylinder clamp points. Allows the whole setup to move a bit in the event of an impact (rather than snapping master housings/levers). As a result of this I find the levers also get bumped/hit/pulled into the correct position for me as a ride progresses.
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  #24  
Old 03-04-2015, 07:51 PM
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One finger and its my middle one and that is both hands.
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  #25  
Old 03-19-2015, 09:53 AM
benj565 benj565 is offline
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I always use just my index finger on each hand. Even on the push bike, just a habit I guess..


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
I also run some electrical tape around the bar beneath the master cylinder clamp points. Allows the whole setup to move a bit in the event of an impact (rather than snapping master housings/levers). As a result of this I find the levers also get bumped/hit/pulled into the correct position for me as a ride progresses.
I run thread tape (plumbers tape) on my bars under the master cylinders, they just move out of the way in a crash.
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  #26  
Old 03-19-2015, 04:14 PM
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I've read, but never tried, that you can remove two clutch springs, directly opposite each other, for a lighter pull with little to no clutch slip under extreme loads
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  #27  
Old 03-22-2015, 04:05 PM
gasgasxc gasgasxc is offline
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I think if you were to video tape a good riders hands during a ride you would see 1-2-and even 4 fingers used depending on the speed,terrain and differing conditions.This is more of a natural thing as opposed to a disciplined thing.Its not something you force yourself to do.IMO

As far as lever position,that will be more determined by the stance and posture you use most often on the bike.Some guys ride in an aggressive weight centered,standing chin over the bar.Some guys will ride their 300 like a Barkolounger with a beer in their hand.And some in between those extremes.

Levers in a more level to downward position probably suits more aggressive riders that stand.When a rider is sitting he is usually more relaxed and riding a slower pace so positioning is less important.
Basicly we line the bark busters dead perpendicular straight ahead.That way when you tag something they will not give way either upwards or downwards.
And we adjust the levers down of center in reference to the bark busters.

Electrical tape was mentioned for wrapping bars under reservoirs-perch-throttle housing clamps,mirrors,kill switch-control switches whatever.

Youll find plumbers tape may work better for you there.

Removing clutch springs to lighten clutch pull??
Um no.That will lead to many problems.
Most of the bikes being discussed here are already hydraulic clutches.

As was mentioned earlier over gripping the bar as opposed to lower body control is the beginning of the end.

As far as logs goes?? Each log is different size.bark,no bark,dry,slick,rotten whatever.combine that with angle of attack and wether the log is below you or above you.Well you see what Im getting at "2 blip throttle technique"
kinda like pei mei's "five point palm exploding heart"technique.
I wouldn't get to worried about all that,practice, practice, practice.
If technical riding is your thing.If you love to ride tough technical terrain and punish your friends,or not be punished by them.Buy a trials bike to practice on.
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  #28  
Old 03-22-2015, 06:02 PM
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barossi73 barossi73 is offline
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never paid much attention until now.im 2 fingers on clutch(finger 3 does most of the work),but only a light flick is needed as bandit pointed out above.def 2 fingers on brake(finger 2 mostly) and fingers at the ready except when wot.id go with what is the most comfortable for you,and what feels like the most control.never been a fan of 1 finger,but am a fan of chris birch!personal preference I reckon.you can strengthen your middle finger by waving it at pumpkin riders as you go past!just kiddin chris,respect!
just noticed im now classed as a senior member...cmon im only 42!
also I set my levers fairly high which I think works better for a couple of fingers because as your wrists are back you tend to lift your pinkies,if the levers are down further you tend to use more as your hands roll forward.a lot depends on how you like your bars set up,and wether youre a sitter or a stander.i ride a lot of single track and mostly stand.when I get tired and sit the gg seat reminds me to stand back up
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