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General Discussions & Announcements General Announcements, General Questions, e.g. What bike do I buy?, etc. |
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#1
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2010 EC300 or not?
Hi All,
I'm 6'2" with longer legs and been riding 2010 EC300 I bought brand-new. Recently, I rode 250xc-w and 300xc-w and wondered why I am not getting a similar power KTMs provide. They rev and provide great power, but mine does not rev as good and when I rev, it gives me vibrations more than power. On my bike, lifting the front requires decent amount of throttle on 1st gear. On 300xc-w 2nd, 3rd gear wheelies are easy. I always get sludge regardles of premix ratio and the brand of oil I use. So I am interested in APT's SmartCarb. I expect it will resolve the above issues. Having long legs, I have to lift my whole leg for rear brake. On tight single-track I usually keep my right leg lifted whole time. It gets tiring and I get cramps after 2 hrs. The solutions is auto-clutch + LeftHandRearBrake. Unfortunately, Rekluse produces only the most expensive ($950) version of their auto-clutches for my bike while I need the basic one. Plus, I prefer PDS or linkless shock over linkage due to less maintenance. All the bolt and nuts around linkage is very tight on my bike. I love the handling of my bike but I hasitate to spend more money because of jetting issues and ergonomics. I assume it's a good chance I can find used rekluse or tall seats for KTMs. Should I go to the orange side? Cheers, Burhan |
#2
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ktm
Yes. You should buy a ktm.
PS I will buy your GASGAS. I'm just sayin.
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2011 EC300 Six Days 2010 EC300 Nambotin Replica |
#3
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So what have you done/addressed on your Gasser so far? Has it always felt soft or just recently? How many hours?
Stock the bikes run overly rich if it has an AS2 carb with the N1EF needle. A certain number of people have found considerably slop in the powervalve tension. Results in a soft bottom end. Engine vibration - check engine mounts - but the 300 by nature will vibe a bit. The factory started installing sealed main bearings in 2010 which I think may increase the vibes once the grease starts to dispearse. I went to a 250 jug on mine and reduced the vibes alot. Then had the crank trued and new bearings throughout cases and it feels silky smooth. This was over 8000kms/260hrs though. PS. It should easily lift the front in the bottom 3 gears. Mine will lift in 5th in the mid-upper rpm with nothing more than a tug at the bars and a crack of the throttle. It also sounds like you want a ktm.. Jetting and PV checks won't cost you much at all. |
#4
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Quote:
Somebody told me to check for squish band clearance. It might be on the loose side (close to 2mm). I was told the ideal squish height is between 1.14 mm to 1.27 mm. The benefits of tighter squish are crisper power delivery, better and cleaner fuel burn, easiness in getting one's jetting right, and elimination of detonation!!! For Power Valve adjustment, I guess I need different springs, right? Thanks, Burhan |
#5
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How many hours are on your bike? There is a chance that it might be getting ready for a top end.
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#6
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I liked Clake idea but as you said, it's expensive. I think it's not worth that much. |
#7
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I think the engine is around 100hrs. I'll check it later. |
#8
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The stock squish band on my 2010 was 2.6mm (epicly large) and bringing it down to the 1.2-1.3mm range does improve the efficiency and the bike will be less finicky to changes. Its something I'd suggest doing to any 2T if you hope to achieve the most out of it. Improvements across the board. There is a sticky thread on the 2T engine section which covers the powervalve tension and setup. No parts required (maybe a gasket). Seriously though, changing out the stock needle for something else (either Yamaha/Suzuki taper profiles) will completely transform the bike. |
#9
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If your 300 will not wheelie easily in 3rd and 4th gear. THERE IS A PROBLEM!!! Yes the PDS has less maintenance however it takes a good suspension tuner to get it dialed and even then at least to me will not provide the ride quality of a good tuned linkage rear. I really do not like orange much. In the long run the Gas Gas should be a better bike and for sure cost LESS to maintain. You may be a little on the tall side for the old chassis (prior to 12 Gasser) but they do have tall seat options and handlebar riser options. I am only 5 foot 7 and rode a 11 six day 250 and a 12 300 back to back several times this weekend and must say for me the 12 and up chassis is VASTLY superior in ergonomics and handles sweet and will reward a fast rider who pushes it. For a taller guy the (and even a short guy like me) you may prefer a 12 or up gasser. My 300 engine pulls sweetly and wheelies (WHENEVER I WANT!) and revs out nicely!! Vibes a tish more then a 250 Gasser but rewords you with excellent bottom end grunt!!! So I guess, get your bike running right. (My god come on jetting is not rocket science!!) Work the height deal out Tall Seat and bars!!) Or grab a low hour 12 or new 13!! Gas Gas!!! But no I would leave the Orange for the KoolAid club!! Just saying...............
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#10
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I'm just over 6' tall with long legs and ride a 2011 EC 300 and I am very comfortable on the chassis. I have never tried a 12 or 13 but would sure like too!!
When I first got mine it took me awhile to sort the jetting out and it never had the power I thought it should have either. Now that it is jetted properly it runs awesome!! Strong power throughout and just last week I took out the slop in the power valve and HOLY SH!$&":;!!!! It now flat out rips!!! I would say spend a bit of time to get it dialed in and I think you will be very happy with how the motor will perform!
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