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Enduro Chassis & Body Enduro Frame, Plastic, Brakes, Bars, Controls, wheels, tires, sprockets & gearing. |
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#21
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If I were doing it over, I would take the Mecca or Scorpion cages, add top and bottom GP braces, top shroud mount, and rear support with my head stays. Also a sturdy front grill spaced at least an inch from the core is neccessary for me, plastic won't cut it. Thats what is good about the Flatland guards, that clearance gives you a crumple zone as well as allows enough airflow even when the grills get clogged with mud, keeping the core clean. At the last enduro (a brutal mud and hill fest), my nephew had no issues with overheating. I was pit crew so I just scraped the mud at the resets and gas stops.
That would be as good as it gets without getting the welder out. |
#22
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This is what I endded up with. Two Braces in the front one that runs guard to guard up high above the plug area in cae the whole thing smashed back, whcih I doubt will happen. I used a double sheet (1/4 total) on the sides for extra rigidity between the braces. The top of the shroud is double zipp tied to the guard. The ends of the triagulation but up against the weld on the frame and are held rigidly in place with a hose clamp. I may add a flatlad style front. I moved all the wires that ran between the tank hoop and tank forward so they don't get pinched. The voltage regulator now is ziptyed to the triagulation on that side. Factoring in the cost of materials I probably realized about 12 cents an hour fabbing them up.
Last edited by PEB; 11-23-2008 at 12:38 AM. |
#23
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Nice job Paul. That should deal with a tip over onto a log just fine. You know, Murphy says that a stick will find the front of the rad if you don't add a grill, thats the way it works!
On all my GGs, I reroute the wires under the frame loop, crossing the loop in the rear where there is more room and less chance for abrasion. |
#24
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I probably would have done some things different had this thread existed earlier. My left radiator was finished and non repairable, so I figured I was going to have to adapt something to work for my '04 300EC.
I had a spare set of new Fluidyne radiators for a 4 stroke KTM on the shelf. I measured them up, and by reconfiguring a few of the coolant barbs and reshaping the tanks, I came up with a set of radiators that carry about 11 oz more coolant, and are braced without using external brackets. Here's what the right one looked like compared to the original. I weight 240lbs and can stand on it. The weakest point are the 6mm bolts that hold the radiators to the frame. I made a 0.125" aluminum bracket that ties these to the frame mounts.
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gaspipe [the original] -------------------- '04 Gasgas 300EC Bruce's Suspension F&R revalve-Zokes & .48 fork springs, Ohlins & 5.8 rear spring, Scotts damper, Hyde skidplate, Clarke tank, Knight powervalve cover, LTR jetting/waterpump impeller/exhaust spigot, Wiseco piston, ICW reinforced KTM RFS Fluidyne radiators, Hammerhead shift lever, GoFasters seat, Allen hardware conversion, UFO LED tail light, Dunlop 756, Michelin X11, and TN street plated....killer trail ride machine Last edited by gaspipe; 02-22-2009 at 10:50 PM. |
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