No Rear Brakes!!!!!

[matt4wheels]

I've never really had excellent rear brakes on my 02 EC300 but after letting the bike sit over the winter I have almost nothing. I've blead the rear brakes twice which resulted in no increase in performance. I literally have about 10% rear brake function. When I blead the system the fluid looked very dark and cloudy. I'm leaning toward thinking my master cylinder isn't holding sufficient pressure. There are no visible external leaks. In order to get the rear brakes to lock while spinning the rear tire and sitting on the stand, I have to extend the brake pedal to max travel. Help!

[iancp5]

Originally Posted by matt4wheels

I've never really had excellent rear brakes on my 02 EC300 but after letting the bike sit over the winter I have almost nothing. I've blead the rear brakes twice which resulted in no increase in performance. I literally have about 10% rear brake function. When I blead the system the fluid looked very dark and cloudy. I'm leaning toward thinking my master cylinder isn't holding sufficient pressure. There are no visible external leaks. In order to get the rear brakes to lock while spinning the rear tire and sitting on the stand, I have to extend the brake pedal to max travel. Help!

odd sounds like something is flexing assuming you have got all the air out. i'd back bleed it very thoroughly to make absolutely certain all air is out. normally i run about 500cc through.

[matt4wheels]

iancp5 thanks for the reply. I'm thinking that your idea a something flexing might be the case. When I grab a hold of my rear caliper assembly I can move it around a pretty good bit. Are there any wearable sleeves or bushings that are used in the rear caliper mount assembly? The caliper pivot pin(motor side of the caliper) is metal on metal in my case. I just greased up the caliper pivot bore and slid it on the metal post(pivot pin) before I rotated the caliper counter clockwise aligning the pads over the rotor. On the opposite end of the caliper I have a mounting pin/bolt that has a rubber boot on the caliper side and threads on the other end that fasten into the caliper bracket. This backside pin/bolt locks out the pivoting action that is used to change the pads.

What would be wearable on this mounting system? My pads seem to have a lot of life left in them.

[iancp5]

i was thinking more of a worn hose flexing or on the pedal linkage / master cyl mount. the caliper should float. if you have warped disk it can keep pushing the piston too far back but you'd probably feel & see that. i'd still be very sure there isn't air trapped in first - i often find they need a lot of bleeding.

[fury1]

you should also check for slop in your pedal assembly,when the bushing in the pedal wears down it will give you the same no brakes feeling

[matt4wheels]

I ended up spending quite a bit of time bleeding the rear caliper. After about 3oz of fluid, a big black cloud of nasty looking fluid came out. After the fluid returned to clear the rear brakes became 10x better.

Now I have a differn't problem. I noticed that my rear caliper pin is rubbing on the top of the rotor. The pin has been cut about half way through by the rotor. I went ahead and put new caliper locating(slide) pins on and a new upper caliper pin(brake pads). I was hoping that the new locating(slide) pins would fix the problem by lining things back up and prevent any interference between the caliper pin and the rotor. I now believe that the bore that slips over the rear slide pin(closest to the rear axle) has been reamed out and is causing slop in the rear assembly. So here's my question...........Does a Honda CR rear caliper work on the GasGas? If so, what year?