Potential KTM to GAS GAS convert. Please help!

[Colemanian]

Hello, I have been a "ktm guy" for a few years now. I will say that I've enjoyed the bikes I've owned, most recently an 07 250xc with a recluse and a scotts dampener. I had the suspension revalved, and we got along great. I recently sold it, with the intent to stay off dirtbikes for a while, but I have the itch to get another bike and I'm going to have to scratch it.

There is a 2011 six days 300ec at a local dealer that has my eye. The original owner bought it and hated it, he was a long time 4t husky rider that couldn't handle a 2t. The price is awesome on this bike, it only has 10 hrs on it, I've seen it in person.... I believe it.

The problem is, most racers around here don't care for gas gas, prolly just ignorance, but I want to be different. Tired of being one of the 20 other orange bikes on the line ( I race harescrambles, b class ). I am a low rpm rider, so the characteristics of the 300 gas gas should be great for me. I would like some suggestions on how to jet this bike, what mods( like pv covers ect ), to do, what springs to buy and where, ( I'm 215 in street clothes ). And anything else that would be beneficial for me from you experianced guys would help. Thanks

[forgiven]

Where is this bike at?

[forgiven]

Jetting is key on these, but did a pv cover and a few and it is outstanding in the low rpm range.

[Colemanian]

It's in central Missouri. I will probably buy a smart carb when the cast ones come out. I'm up for suggestions in the mean time. And I'll definitely be looking for a pv cover. I usually ride a gear or so high. Thanks for the reply.

[jpelaston]

I typically ride a gear hit as well and have never needed the PVC cover.

I think you will absolutely need new springs. I am about 205 pound Vet A Enduro rider and use .46 front springs and 5.4 rear and still felt they were a little soft. Aside from that, I bet you will not need anything.

[Jakobi]

If its a good deal I say go for it!

Being a 300 it will be more than happy to run all day in the lower rpm. There are a few things to check when setting them up, and after being through it all well and truly I'd suggest doing a few things prior to racing.

1) Measure the squish clearance and have the head machined to meet your requirements.
2) Check the preload on the powervalve actuator - remove any slop.
3) Identify which carb you have (some came with 36mm ASII, others with a 38mm). Go through it and ensure that its clean and that the float heights are set correctly. Note the current jets and slide number.
4) Get the suspension sorted. Depending on your weight, you'll probably be looking at getting it resprung front and rear. The stock shock has heaps of room for improvement with a revalve, and needless to say the forks will benefit probably more than anything else.
5) Bolt on your protection

Thats all. Very simple and reliable bikes. Part supplies have been a non issue. Jetting took some time and effort but I've now established a few good base lines to produce varying engine characteristics. The real key to the puzzle is the head and the float height though. Get these done and you'll find better power, better fuel economy, and more stability in the tune to deal with changes in elevation and temp.

[john01]

I didn't have the PV cover on my 2010 GG 300 and with the CCK needle I was running it had awesome low end and riding a gear high was smooth and FAST. The handling on the GG is unreal. If you end up getting it you are gonna love it. Hey I have a smart carb do in on Monday for my 08 165 Husky.

[Colemanian]

Thanks guys. I think it's a great deal. 4800 with only 10 hours. And it has brand new cycra hand guards, carbon fiber pipe guard, and a shark fin ( not sure if that's six days equipment or not ). I'll go through the carb first, then springs, then a revalve if I can swing it. I'm convinced..... It will be mine. :cool

[Jakobi]

Thats a bargain!

Originally Posted by Colemanian

I am about to purchase a 2011 6days 300ec. It has the 38mm carb. I have always bought the jd kit for my previous ktms but I'd like to avoid that if possible. I live in sw Missouri. Pretty humid, 1200ft elevation. I'd like to know where to start on this carb. Thanks.

Pull the trigger. You'll be another happy customer!

Now I know they are advertised as having 38mm carbs, but when you take ownership you'll really have to check the carb out to confirm it. The ASII is the one with the shallow bowl (float height 6mm - works better between 7 and 8mm though). They have a small flat metal cap held down by 2 small bolts and on the top it will be marked 36 or 38 in a circle.

Being a KTM owner its very possible you'll have some decent needles in your kit to work with.

The JD needles are the same for the 250/300 KTM/GG 36m/38mm from what we have heard. I wouldn't hesitate to try dropping in either needle for a test run if you have them available. I can get you the JD recommended settings if you like. Obviously the pilots and mains are different depending on the carb size.

Otherwise if you want to drop a few coins people have had good luck working with the Suzuki needles (NEDx/NECx) and my personal favs are the Yamaha needles (N3Ex/N3Cx). Again the needle diameter pilot and main will depend on the carb size. For the 38mm ASII I have found the J diameter to work well in the 300's and W diameter in a 250. Usually looking at matching with a 40-42 pilot, and a 172-178 main. These are only my experiences with both a 300 and 250 in Australia running 95/98RON fuel at 20-30C 300-1000M. Others in the states have also had success using these needles but I'll let them chime in. A quick search in the jetting section will turn up heaps of info.

Just be aware that different models have had different carbs which have required substantially different specs.

[twowheels]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

Thats a bargain!



Pull the trigger. You'll be another happy customer!

Now I know they are advertised as having 38mm carbs, but when you take ownership you'll really have to check the carb out to confirm it. The ASII is the one with the shallow bowl (float height 6mm - works better between 7 and 8mm though). They have a small flat metal cap held down by 2 small bolts and on the top it will be marked 36 or 38 in a circle.

Being a KTM owner its very possible you'll have some decent needles in your kit to work with.

The JD needles are the same for the 250/300 KTM/GG 36m/38mm from what we have heard. I wouldn't hesitate to try dropping in either needle for a test run if you have them available. I can get you the JD recommended settings if you like. Obviously the pilots and mains are different depending on the carb size.

Otherwise if you want to drop a few coins people have had good luck working with the Suzuki needles (NEDx/NECx) and my personal favs are the Yamaha needles (N3Ex/N3Cx). Again the needle diameter pilot and main will depend on the carb size. For the 38mm ASII I have found the J diameter to work well in the 300's and W diameter in a 250. Usually looking at matching with a 40-42 pilot, and a 172-178 main. These are only my experiences with both a 300 and 250 in Australia running 95/98RON fuel at 20-30C 300-1000M. Others in the states have also had success using these needles but I'll let them chime in. A quick search in the jetting section will turn up heaps of info.

Just be aware that different models have had different carbs which have required substantially different specs.

Pretty much what he said

The Six Days comes with 45mm Marzocchi's that we have had good luck tuning, but like Jeremy said you're going to need springs on at least the front (and likely a lot more rebound damping).

I've been really happy with the 38mm carb running an NEDW (2nd clip above 40F; 3rd below 40F), 42 pilot, 175 main combo unless the temps drop and the speeds rise, then a 178 goes in.

Welcome aboard.