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Enduro Electrical & Wiring Lighting, Ignition, Wiring, Plugs, etc.


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  #11  
Old 11-13-2021, 06:39 PM
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Solved... when the high beam +ve connector is removed from the bulb all is good. I think the left handlebar switch is just a single pole lights on/off and it was never designed for a high/low beam option. Hence when I connected the black lead to the bulb high beam the switch earthed out the tail lights..

I shall go the AC to DC route as described in the sticky.. Thanks all.


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  #12  
Old 11-14-2021, 03:22 AM
masterbill masterbill is offline
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Hello,

The type of switch that you are using is the wrong type of switch , it is acting as an on - off switch .

Have a look on ebay for universal motorcycle light switch and wire your electrics to one .
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Old 11-15-2021, 04:34 AM
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2007 EC250 with just basic lights - (low beam headlight, tail and stop light only)


Ok, after much study and reading I have come to the conclusion that my brain is not wired up to understand electrickery!

The sticky post above (AC to DC) refers to the main earth, I have 3 in the same location by the ac regulator and it seems that all of the lighting earths need to be removed ...etc... I am confused...

So, I have two wires (one yellow and one white) which appear to come from the stator. The white wire goes nowhere (not connected to anything) and is just taped to the frame at the left side of the tank. The yellow wire has a spade connector and that appears to go to the ac regulator near the coil. Both these wires are live when the engine is running.

Is the following sensible /possible?

Leave the existing system exactly how it is but disconnect all the lights (and brake switch) from any earths to the frame.

Use the redundant white wire from the stator to power a new reg /rec earthed to the frame with the correct wire. I assume the reg rec needs to be earthed to the frame with its wire NOT bolted to the frame)

Will I now have a new source of 12 V DC from the reg rec which I can use for lights and other accessories? I appreciate that everything utilising this new 12V DC will need to be isolated from the frame. (I hope the brake switch will not cause an issue?)

Essentially I will have added a new 12V DC system which is isolated from the existing circuits and with its own earth/neg to a battery - all sourced from the white wire under the tank.

Is it vital to also have a battery on this new 12V DC system or will it work without?


Just smiling, as I suspect this will be jibberish to those electrical wizards out there... apologies!
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  #14  
Old 11-18-2021, 03:31 PM
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Any thoughts anyone?

Sent from my LLD-L31 using Tapatalk
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Old 11-18-2021, 08:46 PM
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The second unused white wire source coil will not have the power to run a Dc circuit by itself. Have a look at the topics here on floating the earth if you truly want to run Dc power.
Essentially both source coils the white and yellow ones are earthed to the stator plate. These are connected and then run to a regulator rectifier which then with supply DC power.
You will need a battery or capacitor to store the power.
I would just be fixing the Ac circuits and running that. Simple and it works. I do not know where you got the idea that you need to disconnect earths from the frame. Many bikes use both ac and Dc circuits and share common earths with zero issues.
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Old 11-19-2021, 06:51 PM
Neil E. Neil E. is offline
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Shared earths is an issue regarding how the voltage rectifier works. The GG stator is a simple single phase AC system. The windings are in series with the yellow wire being ~80% tap and the white wire being a 100% tap. The bottom end of the windings is grounded to the engine/frame.

Simple explanations regarding voltage rectifiers:
https://www.rohm.com/electronics-bas.../rectification
https://www.ccontrols.com/enews/2018/0518story2.htm

On a GG the yellow wire is regulated to ~14 volts AC relative to ground. This is the most basic method for lighting. The filament in a bulb works fine whether it gets AC or DC voltage. The white is not used since the regulator would have to work that much harder to clip the excess voltage.

On the newer machines with estart, the white wire is used to feed the rectifier. The AC stator voltage on the white wire is rectified to ~14 volts DC.

Since the GG system shares the stator ground and the battery ground it uses a half-wave rectifier. This removes half the sine wave and the higher voltage on the white wire helps to make up for this loss. The lumpy output (more like a pulsing DC voltage) is leveled out by the battery.


A full wave rectifier is more efficient but requires isolation. Since the battery is grounded to make the starter system simple, the stator ground must be removed from the engine/frame ground. This is often called "floating the ground" and requires a modification of the stator. The bottom end of the windings is changed to only connect to a new additional wire. AC output occurs on the white wire and the new wire. This feeds into your full wave rectifier. There is still a reduced AC voltage between the yellow wire and the new wire but it is not used. This floating of the stator ground allows for a grounded output of the rectifier (required by the starter motor).

So why do we want DC voltage? Battery charging is the main reason. So if you do not add a starter, you really don't need a battery. Some juristictions may require a method for the lights to be on without the engine running, so that needs a battery. Horns and flasher relays also want DC voltage. Most everyone adds a battery since it's easy to do.

The simplest way to set up an electrical system is to leave the stator grounded and have the rectifier output ungrounded. Take this ungrounded DC power to just the items that need it. It will be there for all your devices EXCEPTING a starter motor. This mixed system will work fine if you hook it up properly.
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Old 11-20-2021, 11:39 AM
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Many Thanks Neil.. the penny has finally dropped!

"The simplest way to set up an electrical system is to leave the stator grounded and have the rectifier output ungrounded. Take this ungrounded DC power to just the items that need it. It will be there for all your devices EXCEPTING a starter motor. This mixed system will work fine if you hook it up properly."

This is what I was getting at and, will do, if the guy at the testing station insists on the letter of the law.

From your description I think I will be OK to use a full wave rectifier attached to the white wire... Electricity is funny stuff....

Lets hope, for all our sakes, he just passes the bike!
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