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Enduro Suspension Tuning & maintenance of Enduro forks, shocks, etc


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  #1  
Old 10-10-2013, 04:45 AM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Default Sachs Shock Service

Going to try my hand at a Sachs shock tomorrow.

So, how now brown cow. I see they have no bleed port at all, no where to connect the vac pump to, and also run an ifp for the resevoir. Whats the best way to get into these things..

Off to download the manual

Any hints tips or tricks appreciated.


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Old 10-10-2013, 10:06 PM
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No hints. I don't like this shock one bit!

IFP has no threaded insert for removal. Had to remove the clicker assembly and use compressed air to pop it out. The shock has no bleed hole, so no good using the vac pump on these bad boys..

But the cream on the cake.. The top out spring retainer is fixed to the shaft, meaning to put a new bump stop, or seal head on it you have to remove the clevis.. which has no lock nut and won't come off easily! Dirty shock!
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Old 10-11-2013, 03:06 AM
swazi_matt swazi_matt is offline
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I would like to follow this thread so please add some pics, i watched a guy install my race tech valve so may be able to remember how he did it (he did not vacume pump because he did not have one)
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Old 10-11-2013, 04:16 AM
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Its a Sachs for a 07 TE450 Husky, but very likely the same setup that the gassers use. I can take a few pics of it all pulled down. I've put the clicker assembly back in again now, but valving, and ifp are still out. Had to order in a racetech shaft holder as trying to use anything home made wasn't holding firm enough to spin the clevis off the shaft.

Hand bleeding will be no issue at all. Fill the main chamber a bit, and insert the valving. Fill resevoir to top, slide the IFP/res seperator in and allow a little overflow. Drive it down to the required depth, which pushes fluid past the clicker stack/bleed. Stroke the shaft a few times and bleed until no more bubbles surface. Top up the main chamber and push the seal head in, install the snap ring. Then install the end cap, snap ring, and charge.
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Old 10-12-2013, 04:15 AM
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Heres a pic for you Matt



And some of the other fun I've had playing with this bike.. Beware the second hand owner.



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Old 10-12-2013, 04:14 PM
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Holy crap,what butchery.
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Old 10-12-2013, 05:47 PM
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The biggest problem with Sachs is the energizer o ring flattening and the shock loosing damping because of it, you need to step cut the piston band and replace with a viton o ring, the ltr website used (prolly still does) have the details, the shock really benefits from a gold valve as it wears the band less and seals better, the step cut should back pressure the band as well to aid sealing. The upper valves have minimal variation as well so compression clickers dont do much. The base (rebound) valve becomes compression fine tube as we'll. the one way valve in the base causes some harshness, you can remove it by removing the first of two nuts on the end of the shaft, remove the spring and ball, you will have to play with the compression damping after that, lots of stacks to 'start point' on husky cafe. Cheers
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Old 10-12-2013, 08:27 PM
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This ones off a 07 TE450 Simmo. 16mm shaft. No rebound check valve.

I'm not sure if this particular shock suffers the fade due to the piston ring. The owner advised rear end was harsh/hard. The rebound circuit was closed and crossing over into the compression. It was like a rock. Add in the state of the swingarm bearings (now replaced) and the dry linkage bearings (now greased), and that at ome stage there was contact between the shock bolt and tierods, and well.. you get the idea.
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Old 10-13-2013, 12:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
The owner advised rear end was harsh/hard.
Heh
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Old 10-13-2013, 03:13 AM
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I reckon if you can get hold of a new oring, wack it in and do the step cut, it seems to affect all Sachs shocks and may be to do with the steel body.

Ps what a mess!
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