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Enduro Suspension Tuning & maintenance of Enduro forks, shocks, etc


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  #221  
Old 01-06-2014, 12:30 AM
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Just an update,
Spoke to the suspension people that did my forks today and they were very helpful.
The spacer / washer is located at the point where the dampener rod enters the inner cartridge and is meant to be there and meant to be loose as it slides down into a sleeve internally once installed in the outer fork leg.

The reason for only 230-250ml of oil being in the outer tubes is basically because the max they would have put in would be 270 ml depending on what the forks had in them when they opened them up??? I did push this a little further but for some unknown reason they don't put enough oil in there.

The lack of oil caused the clunk and cavitation in my forks and also caused them to have no bottoming resistance.

Not sure why one leg has 16 turns of compression adjustment and the other 24 or why the PFP spring flopped around in one leg and not the other. They said they should both be equal,( obviously they were not).

Hmmmmm


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  #222  
Old 01-06-2014, 01:03 AM
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I reckon that sounds like they just did em like a kyb aoss and assumed its the same. Was that a local bloke or interstate?
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  #223  
Old 01-06-2014, 01:36 AM
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Interstate for me.
I'll PM you if you need to know as I don't want to bag people on here.
Cheers Mark
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  #224  
Old 01-06-2014, 03:11 AM
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yep, i was being discrete as well. cheers
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  #225  
Old 01-06-2014, 05:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wence View Post
Just an update,
Not sure why one leg has 16 turns of compression adjustment and the other 24 or why the PFP spring flopped around in one leg and not the other. They said they should both be equal,( obviously they were not).

Hmmmmm
It's because the PFP shaft is not mounted correctly. You need to unscrew it to bring it up a bit. I have detailed pictures on how you can do this, tomorrow will post it as I have finished a complete service on the compression unit .
In any case take a look at the picture below that shows where you can adjust the PFP shaft , you need to unscrew the shaft where the arrows point to :



You need to use the 22 to hold the PFP adjuster on the top and a 14(?) where the arrow is pointing. Backup the compression adjustment rod all the way out and LEAVE THE AIR SCREW ON the PFP adjuster before using the 22 .
If you backup the top of the shaft a little you will gain more compression clicks
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  #226  
Old 01-06-2014, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vindicator View Post
It's because the PFP shaft is not mounted correctly. You need to unscrew it to bring it up a bit. I have detailed pictures on how you can do this, tomorrow will post it as I have finished a complete service on the compression unit .
In any case take a look at the picture below that shows where you can adjust the PFP shaft , you need to unscrew the shaft where the arrows point to :



You need to use the 22 to hold the PFP adjuster on the top and a 14(?) where the arrow is pointing. Backup the compression adjustment rod all the way out and LEAVE THE AIR SCREW ON the PFP adjuster before using the 22 .
If you backup the top of the shaft a little you will gain more compression clicks
Thanks mate,
The PFP spring was really loose so I did do it up a touch.In hindsight it probably was not such a good idea.
On the bright side , I am learning and the forks are now working properly.
I will get back in there soon and change the oil as I want all clean good stuff for this years races.
Cheers Mark
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  #227  
Old 01-06-2014, 02:47 PM
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Was going to suggest the same thing re different numbers of clicks. I'm sure I read a similar post on another site re a set of showas.

Good work Mark. When I do mine I'll use the vac pump to pull as much air from the oil itself before even starting to fill the carts. The rest seems easiest enough (as per the manual), with the trick being the fast compressions at the end. What weight oil did you end up going with?
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  #228  
Old 01-07-2014, 01:08 AM
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I ended up putting in 340ml mate.
One good thing the tuner said re the fast pumping at the end was to gently do the first one or two to expel most of the air and then go for it otherwise air and oil will be mixed ( oil aerated), not sure how true this is but sounded feasible.
Cheers Mark
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  #229  
Old 01-11-2014, 03:54 PM
Vindicator Vindicator is offline
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It was time to work on the forks again, my arms were telling me so .
First thing I noticed when draining the oil was the highly contaminated outer oil after sitting for 1 week:



The cartridge oil was just about the same:



This observation and the fact that one of the cartridges would not fully compress, even though I had bleed it correctly when setting it up the last time, really puzzles me . After a quick stroke of the damping rod, I could hear oil bursting through the compression shaft recess and full travel of the damping rod was achieved . The damping rod of the 2nd cartridge had full travel but when I tipped it over, oil came out the 2 draining holes on the top . I'm 100% sure I didn't left it there on previous assembly .
The quantity of outer oil drained was more or less the same amount it was filled, the rest was all over the floor :-)

I don't understand how the oil could get such level of debris after only ~30 hours of riding. Could it be just from the bushings ?
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Last edited by Vindicator; 01-11-2014 at 09:45 PM.
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  #230  
Old 01-11-2014, 04:10 PM
Vindicator Vindicator is offline
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Here's a pic of the PFP/compression unit dismantled:


Did not dismantled the PFP piston, didn't appeal to my curiosity :-)

Picture of the PFP adjuster that also holds the small steel ball and spring that are responsible for the compression clicks. As you can see they are full of grease and I could barely hear/feel the clicks. I cleaned everything and applied a good quantity of Motorex's Joker and the result was quite good, clicks are now evident

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