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  #1  
Old 10-15-2018, 06:29 PM
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nhgas nhgas is offline
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Originally Posted by Chesterspal View Post
You asked to see my bike. Here it is. Still working on it so the air box is not on and the fairings are just sitting there.


Where do you live? Rascal's Cycles used to be the gasgas trails dealer in Massachusetts. I think he is still has a repair shop in the Brimfiled MA area....
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Old 10-16-2018, 02:17 AM
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There is a large brass bolt in the radiator with wires to it. When it gets hot the cct completes and your fan should start.

That looks very similar to my 00 but few frame changes.

In road racing people run lots of oil, like 20:1 of synthetic which is way more than the bottles usually recomend, but better protection and more power from better sealing.

You can't hurt it putting lots of oil in. You own a 20yr old Spanish bike and all the bearings are old. I'll let you decide how much you want to push the envelope of good lubrication.

The big thing is getting the jetting right. On my 200, using NZ gas at close to sea level and 60:1 for Trials use - so many differences, it was pretty stumbly. I found 1 size smaller pilot and 1 smaller main worked wonders. Maybe the previous owner/s has already changed, but surprisingly few do.

I found my Honda dealer stocked dellorto jets as they owned montessa but that was years ago.
The mixture screw is really for how it reacts from closed to just open. In is richer, out leans it but if you are to 3 screws out go size smaller pilot jet.

Oh yeah mine was difficult to operate the choke lever as it was close to frame. Had to poke it fully on, and drilled and fitted a cable tie to make it easy to pull to close.

Always run carb out of gas. Mine would stick the float jet so would start and run for a min then die and need a tap to get it running again. Ahh, dellortos.
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Old 10-16-2018, 06:11 AM
Chesterspal Chesterspal is offline
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Originally Posted by (F5) View Post
There is a large brass bolt in the radiator with wires to it. When it gets hot the cct completes and your fan should start.
On this bike it appears the thermal switch is inline with the return hose from the cylinder head. See picture.



Quote:
In road racing people run lots of oil, like 20:1 of synthetic which is way more than the bottles usually recomend, but better protection and more power from better sealing...You can't hurt it putting lots of oil in.
This is something I need to find out. Do not want to damage anything.

Can someone tell me what these adjustments are used for. I assume they affect the front shocks but I do not feel any real difference compressing them at one extreme setting to the other.



I'd like to add handgrip guards to this bike. Have them on my dirt bike and they have saved me more times than I can count. However, those guards will not work on this bike as the shift/brake mechanisms are in the way.



Can someone take a picture of what they use on their bike so I can see just how they fit up?

Last edited by Chesterspal; 10-16-2018 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 10-16-2018, 10:22 AM
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Yes that is your thermostat housing. You can test your fan by unplugging it jumping the two terminals on the wires and starting the bike the fan should run.

Those are your compression and rebound settings. One fork is compression one fork is rebound. Unless you're a high-level Rider you'll feel no difference I was told to just set mine in the middle.

Back to your oil premix you can mix more oil and it does lubricate better and seal the Rings better but there's a point to where you're just throwing money out the window. If it makes you feel more secure makes it 50 to 1 it won't hurt it it would create a mess with this excess oil not being burnt. I have been running mine at 80 to 1 with Amsoil Sabre at 80 to1 for two years with no problems and I do ride mine in the woods at my clubs property

Are you talking about Bark Busters if so I would suggest not putting them on. On a trials bike the likelihood of you breaking your wrist would be real good
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Old 10-16-2018, 01:08 PM
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That's right it was an inline arrangement, it's been a while. We have gas without ethanol available.
If the jetting is close most of the fuel mixture will be burnt. If it is rich combustion won't be complete, extra mixture will be expelled. That mixture contains fuel and oil.

Additionally trials bikes spend a lot of time, I'm going to use the term slightly erroneously 'Off-pipe', so more mixture is wasted than an engine run at speeds closer to optimum, and thus more being short circuited out without being burnt.
Don't lose sleep over it, people get worked up over oil discussions.
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Old 10-16-2018, 09:28 PM
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My friend Chris is spot on - Amsoil Sabre at 80:1 or even 100:1 is an excellent oil and would be my first choice. If you decide to go with a more oil rich mixture like 50:1 or 60:1 Amsoil Dominator or Interceptor might be a better since they have a lower flashpoint. More oil makes an engine run cooler - not a bad thing in and of itself but the engine needs to get hot enough to burn off the excess oil and the temp at which that happens is called flashpoint.
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Old 10-16-2018, 11:33 PM
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So is 'burning off' the oil the most important thing? I have other requirements but ya know.
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'? 496 CPI Cheetah RZ/RGV hybrid
'22 765 Street Triple RS
'21 XTrainer
'69 Stinger T125 Suzuki
'23 TRS 250RR (it's a Trials thing)
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  #8  
Old 10-16-2018, 06:05 AM
Chesterspal Chesterspal is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhgas View Post
Where do you live? Rascal's Cycles used to be the gasgas trails dealer in Massachusetts. I think he is still has a repair shop in the Brimfiled MA area....
I'm in Connecticut. Yes, the bike originated from Rascalls back in 1996 according to the paper work I have.
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