2011 Crank Bearings and marks on crankcase..

[Thompo]

Hi Folks,

Noticed a little bit of up/down movement when giving the flywheel a wiggle and had bit of a rattle I couldn't pin down. So I popped the engine out to check the bearings...

Most everything ive read says I should have a roller on the flywheel side?
Mine appears to have a sealed ball bearing. Have to wait until mrs is away to use the oven before I can confirm what number is on it .
##Edit just realised the picture in the manual stays the same as previous years with roller but the bearing number is a 63/28 which is a ball##

Need to borrow a better impact gun to get the clutch side off but I suspect it will be a ball too.

Cant feel any play in the bearing now ive had the ignition side case off and back on, but will likely replace them anyway as ive came this far then I know its good. So do I put a roller in or a ball?

Bike supposedly had topend done before I bought it, piston still has some of the black coating and ive put about 20hrs on it so that's consistent, barrel looks good too. Big/wee ends are good and rod only has a small bit of side to side.

I did notice some damage to the crank case and the plastic bits in the crank.
See photos.
Any ideas, or worth changing anything? might just take any rough edges off the gouges in crank case.

Ill do a bit of measuring while im in there too, to see what the differences are to the 200 cases.

[Jakobi]

My 2010 Euro (essentially a 2011), had sealed crank bearings. I replaced every bearing in the cases and the rod at 260hrs. Very little grease left in them.

I replaced with ball bearings again (actually bought an OEM bearing kit which had sealed bearings in it). I ended up removing the shields to expose the balls.

[Gasser Nate]

I would replace those crankcase stuffers with new ones. The bolts holding them often come loose. It looks like your rod has been replaced before so I don?t know why they wouldn?t have done the plastic pieces as well as they look heat damaged from a possible blown big end. Plenty of loctite on them bolts.

[Gasser Nate]

Early ones had the roller, I always fit the ball bearing equivalent as I have found it lasts longer even though physics says the roller should. And as Jakobi says piss off the seals and run them like every other 2 stroke in the world does. Much more consistent lubrication.

[Zman]

The really early GG bikes had ball bearings on both sides, then they went to the roller on the ignition side and back again later.

[Thompo]

Cheers
Got both crank and counter shaft/clutch bearings for GBP $32 mixture of Koyo and SKF all c3.
The c3E specified for the clutch isn't held anywhere locally and hard to track down online, I think the E denotes highspeed or heavy duty?

Can get the KTM crank seals locally but KTM is 20x35x6 vs 20x35x7 for the GG seal. Don't think it would make a huge difference provided its located properly but ill not get working at the bike again until Friday so just ordered the correct one.

Can the stuffers be replaced without splitting the crank?

[Gasser Nate]

No the crank needs to be split.

[Zman]

Originally Posted by Gasser Nate

No the crank needs to be split.

I thought the stuffer screws could be removed and inserted while the crank was assembled. The stuffers have a notch cut from one end. Is it not big enough to get it out while the crank halves are together?

[Gasser Nate]

There is more than the top two screws holding them in, I think it is three per side, and I doubt you?d squeeze them out the gap in the halves. To do it properly the holes should be cleaned and drowned in permanent loctite.

[Thompo]

Cheers I don't have the tools to split a crank, I see if I can get a price from a local shop to do it, turning into an expensive weekend lol