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  #51  
Old 04-11-2018, 08:31 PM
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Colour? Don't ask me I'm colour blind, but PJ1 used to do a grey that looked like the RM colour of some years and I painted my Suzuki roadrace engines and they looked quite smart.
Some mates put an old bent roadrace mag on the bonfire and apparently it went up quite a treat. But they couldn't put it out when campground owner complained.
There were stories about the Shefield that got lite up in Falkland war back in the 80s being made with Magnesium, but apparently that was (wait for it. . ) fake news.


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  #52  
Old 04-11-2018, 10:51 PM
Moto7man Moto7man is offline
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In short anodising (however you wish to spell it) can be applied to a certain range of Allys with good sucess but some just won't be successful. Cast used to also be a virtual no no. But sort of recently the high pressure casting technology with the right alloy works.
So no to your cast cases.
My old 1980 TT500 had sidecover marked Magnesium so people didn't try Weld it inappropriately. Still used in manufacturing but more expensive.
I spoke to a couple of companies today they thought powder coating would be a better way to go with the cases. It seems the Cerakote is a non permanent coating that does not hold up to abrasion very well.
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  #53  
Old 04-12-2018, 01:08 AM
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Hmm. I've never used Cerakote but been told it's the biz for calipers etc as it's thin but really tough. Popular with the gun crowd.
Maybe there's different grades under the same name, or its hard to apply correctly? but I guess time will tell what is the real story.

I'm currently getting a bunch of stuff done in powder for our military grade products. There is a lot said about powder but the truth is always a bit more complex. It is an industrial coating so getting a consumer grade finish is difficult. Many places will coat your stuff in an open plant next to garden furniture and wrought iron gates. Grit can be introduced in the oven.

That said for cases they don't have to be perfect and the masking is easy, however be clear what you want masked as you will be unhappy if you can't fit the water pump anymore.

Durability is a factor of preparation. Stories of it flaking off are due to oil contamination. But consideration should be given to the chromate conversion. Older non Rohs treatments were more tolerant and keyed better. Newer friendly versions can work well but cleaning process is far more involved if you want good adhesion. I've seen people try to just swap treatments with no other changes and paint flaking becomes an issue. One that many customers probably don't care or notice.

Cases would need some real good cleaning as thread holes can bleed oil in the oven which will cause blotches and adhesion issues. I wonder how porous cast magnesium alloy is?

Your painter may deal in motor parts and armed with a few sharp questions you should be able to work out if they are the chaps for you or to try someone else.
But then again, maybe don't listen to me, I seem to have a history of misinformation.
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  #54  
Old 04-12-2018, 05:23 AM
gasgasxc gasgasxc is offline
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But then again, maybe don't listen to me, I seem to have a history of misinformation.
I wouldn't.
More of that noise I be talking about.

I'd much rather listen to PJ-1 guy.Sounded like "an" option.He's done it.And it was a good practical useful suggestion.

PJ-1 it and twist on.
Life's short.
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  #55  
Old 04-12-2018, 05:32 AM
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And I can recognise a type 'A' personality. I wouldn't waste my time to try tell you anything.
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  #56  
Old 04-12-2018, 05:45 AM
gasgasxc gasgasxc is offline
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And I can recognise a type 'A' personality. I wouldn't waste my time to try tell you anything.
You sound smart.I'll give you that..
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  #57  
Old 04-12-2018, 08:10 AM
rvangeel rvangeel is online now
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FYI. Just watched a video of DIY ceracote.

https://youtu.be/90bGRCKvQDo


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  #58  
Old 04-12-2018, 01:08 PM
Moto7man Moto7man is offline
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FYI. Just watched a video of DIY ceracote.

https://youtu.be/90bGRCKvQDo


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Thats a good video, thanks for posting!
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  #59  
Old 04-15-2018, 06:26 PM
Moto7man Moto7man is offline
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I cleaned the rust out of the barrel with a scotchbrite pad. It doesn't look took bad but there is some pitting in the bottom 1/4 of the barrel. Will a hone take this out this pitting or do we need to bore the liner to .25 over to the 1st oversize piston?





Also, the piston only has an arrow on top (to be installed point to the exhaust port) and a number "3" stamped inside the skirt. I took a measurement of the piston and it was 69.900 which is close to the service limit for a std bore piston and the ring end gap was right at the the .85 ring end gap service limit.

* Does the #3 on the piston mean it is a std size piston within the production limits, like A;B;C marked pistons for niksail cylinders or is it something else?
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  #60  
Old 04-17-2018, 12:07 AM
gasgasxc gasgasxc is offline
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Can you get a close up shot of the top of the piston.Any numbers stamped in it?

If that's a legit service manual then everything you need to know is in it.
Should give you the numbers for the bore and how to check that the bore is true and in spec
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